Jakarta Fashion Week is that fantastic combustion of creativity fueled with hopes of domestic success and international attention.
How does a Southeast Asian country compete globally in the fashion world? This is the task taken on squarely by Jakarta Fashion Week, and a venture approached by founder Svida Alisjahbana with deliberation, tenacity, and of course, flair.
Each October, the stylists, gurus, trendspotters, trendsetters, social media influencers, and content creators converge in Jakarta, out-slaying each other in a delirious whirl of parties, cocktails, and fashion shows.
Jakarta Fashion Week is a spectacle for sure, and the explosion of talent is more than enough to feed the industry. Seven days of runways filled with strutting models, sensational choreographers, and supremely gifted designers showcased the might of Indonesian creativity, making it the glittering highlight of the year.
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Indonesian fashion slays
Where to start? For a casual visitor, it might be bewildering to figure out which label or designer to patronize. Elegant? Ethereal? Regal? We were spoiled for choice.
Studio Moral would be a good start. Initially founded in 2013 as Moral of the Story by Andandika “Andy” Surasetja, this label deploys cutting-edge material like PVC, leather, and lambskin, and chooses unconventional cuts to complete unique ensembles.
For this edition of the show, the Bandung-born Andy was tasked to work with tenun, a heritage fabric from Lombok that’s painstakingly created over months by artisan villagers. That was a challenge that Andy took on with a little trepidation, used as he was to working with more modern choices. But the challenge was accepted, and so it was on to the show.
Working with designer Radhitio “Dito” Anindhito, Andy paired the handwoven cotton tenun with denim, premiering a gorgeous collection of colorfully patterned yet slick city outfits. As a lark, Andy and Dito chose quirky rattan rooster purses to accessorize both male and female models sent down the runway.
That playfulness might be indicative of the ease with which Andy is able to navigate his multi-hyphenated roles as editor-in-chief of Dewi magazine, overall creative director of Jakarta Fashion Week, and the brains behind three different labels: Studio Moral (founded in 2020), Moral of the Story, and InFUTURA (his teen line). Market segments he carefully identified, and then pursued with vigor, to eventual acclaim.
There is also BALIJAVA, a Jakarta-based brand founded by designer Denny Wirawan.
Balijava paid homage to its roots by incorporating batik in daringly cut patterns, whether as cuffs on men’s shirts, as shrugs draped over bare shoulders, or in matching oversized shoulder bags.
Equestrian was Wirawan’s chosen motif, what with foot-long swishy fringes attached to shoulder bags and clip-clopping boots accompanying his models’ long strides. Pied Piper feathers on jaunty berets tied the ensembles together, achieving the desired panache.
It was a more relaxed feel over at Iwan Tirta. Under the reins of creative director Era Soekranto, Iwan Tirta presented burnt-orange and ash-grey separates that were pulled together by crimson-red or royal-blue cummerbunds. It was enough to make one consider a completely new wardrobe, the nonchalant elegance projected by the darling batik collection simply too irresistible.
Biasa, much loved among Bali visitors who suddenly find themselves splurging all their rupiahs on beachwear, premiered a resort collection of frills and pastels. White kaftans or yellow and pink separates brought sun and sand into the picture. Established by Italian designer Susanna Perini, Biasa was the highlight midweek of the fair.
Danny Satriadi, on the other hand, is the choice for those whose aesthetic mantra is ornate. Or perhaps elegant. His collection, titled “Heavenly Creatures,” consisted of intricate draperies conjured with rich fabrics and extensive detailing. In an homage to Chinese zodiac animals, Satriadi likewise worked with tenun, and interwove it with lace, silk, tulle, and other sumptuous materials that dripped and glittered. Tassels popped up unexpectedly on bare backs, and hair ornaments lent an extra dramatic oomph to traditional finery.
For label logo mania, there was homegrown brand ButtonScarves, which went tastefully overboard in conceptualizing where else their discreet logo could possibly be affixed.
There were the normal belt and handbag clasps, and naturally, monogrammed scarves and patent shoes. But the elegant cuts and expertly tailored silhouettes were more than sufficient to restrain the playful foray, with severe black and blue denim offset by gold and silver zips. With a strong international presence, ButtonScarves is a fantastic lesson in showing how craftsmanship can overcome quality concerns for Asian-made products.
Also notable was TYGA, a spanking new brand launched only this July. With but a single store to its credit, TYGA boldly made its foray into the fashion world with an eclectic collection. Athleisure being top of mind nowadays, the edgy outfitter plants itself comfortably in that uber-competitive space. Aside from tees and shorts, TYGA merged space-age shades, distressed blazers, and shocking orange tailored suits to push the boundaries of what athleisure can look like.
ASEAN showcase
The ASEAN special for JFW 2026? A glimpse of other Southeast Asian designers, with Francis Libiran being the chosen representative for the Philippines.
Libiran, as expected, did Filipinos proud, unveiling a timeless collection harking back to his roots and paying homage to elegant Pinoy craftsmanship. Sleek gowns and boxy men’s blazers championed homegrown pride and held up admirably against Singaporean Frederick Lee and Malaysian Rizman Ruzaini.
Svida Alisjahbana, the indefatigable founder of Jakarta Fashion Week, has expertly reigned over the creative chaos inherent in this industry, keeping tabs on the pulse that is Indonesian fashion. Every year is a surprisingly refreshed celebration of the best that Indonesia has to offer—and it is through the guidance of Alisjahbana that this fair has expanded to other regions, attracting Japanese, Korean, and Australian designers, and recently, French collaboration.
And why not? Jakarta is a teeming city of beeping motorbikes, fragrant nasi goreng, and ancient traditions. From this melting wok will surely come more artisans, wunderkinds, and fashion-smiths. And the rest of the world would do well to keep an eye on this city for the next superstar to emerge.
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