Malapascua reveals the ocean’s wonders for those bold enough to dive in.
In the whimsical world of The Life Aquatic with Steve Zissou, Bill Murray’s character plays an oceanographer on a quest for revenge against a shark that allegedly devoured his friend.
“What would be the scientific purpose of killing it?”
“Revenge.”
Ironically, while Hollywood and mainstream media present us with tales of bloodthirsty sharks, the reality is often different—there is a gentler side of life aquatic.
If you want a story about finding incredible marine life, Malapascua is the place to go because it’s the very definition of an underwater paradise. Scuba diving may be the obvious answer to what to do here, but it’s only the beginning. Swim in crystal-clear waters, feast like royalty on the basnig, watch playful dolphins or soaring devil rays and, of course, dive with big, intimidating sharks.
This was my second visit this year. Despite Malapascua’s tiny size (you can easily stroll its perimeter and back in an afternoon), it inspires feelings as grand as the ocean itself. Quaint resorts line the shores and colorful fishing boats bob lazily about, inviting you to stay just a bit longer.
A diver’s day
Our intrepid friend Scott “Gutsy” Tuason organizes his Squires trips with the precision of a maestro. And with the crème de la crème guiding your way, you’re in the best hands possible. The MTD team—born and raised on the island with a lifetime spent diving these waters—is composed of skilled and professional people who are also genuinely warm. On a typical outing, we do three dives, and trust me: one trip with this crew can turn even the most hesitant observer into a full-blown scuba convert.
Our day usually begins at dawn, meeting at the beachfront to board by 6 am sharp. If you know me well, you know I appreciate the details: hot arroz caldo, crispy bacon, and coffee all before 9 am; hot towels after each dive; a refreshing rinse as soon as we step back on the boat; and post-dive meals so delicious they could rival any bib gourmand restaurant. Surrounded by the sea, everything is even more spectacular.
We depart the island and cruise for half an hour until we reach Monad Shoal. Ah, yes, the place to see tiger sharks. While spotting a tiger isn’t exactly topping my list of must-do experiences, there is an undeniable thrill in facing our fears. What is life without a little adventure? Jeston, our lead diver, runs through safety protocols and reiterates the dive plan: “Plan the dive. Dive the plan.” Simple yet profoundly wise.
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The dive
Ironically, these dives are relatively straightforward. The top of the shoal is around 20 meters, and the tigers can be found at the cleaning station. Luckily, the weather during our week is cooperative.
Once the lead divers descend, we strap in and swim down with our buddies, patiently biding our time. It’s a waiting game, and often a matter of luck; sometimes the sharks appear as elusively as well-wrapped presents on Christmas morning.
Picture this: you know this is their home, and you expect them to be around, but you never know if your paths will cross on any given dive. The thrill is in that uncertainty.
About 20 minutes in, a tiger shark—three times my size, powerful, untamed—makes its grand entrance, its hypnotizing vertical stripes cutting through the water. My heart races. Could this wild beauty see through my silly bravado? Sharks, like many animals, are curious, often checking you out before they move on. We had a couple encounters; one shark came closer, intrigued, while another simply passed by. When they do come close, the golden rule is simple: stand your ground.
As apex predators and opportunistic feeders, tiger sharks are remarkably adaptable. There’s a peculiar magic in how they behave; a quick side-eye might precede their serene passage through the water. Interestingly, this area was once known for thresher sharks, but they have since relocated to Kimud Shoal.
The thrill of the hunt, the beauty of the chase
At Kimud Shoal, a sanctuary in its own right, we see a thresher leap out of the water. It is quite a spectacle watching such efficiency wrapped in elegance.
You will know you have arrived when you see a multitude of boats, and divers eating their lunches as they spot threshers displaying their famous breaches. The site starts shallow at 12 meters, plunging down to 200 meters where hammerheads lurk in the depths.
As we jump in and swim over the plateau, I got the feeling of wandering through a strawberry field—but I am instead surrounded by vibrant sea fans, fire corals, and colorful “tiny dancers” (that’s how I like to call them, though they are known as anthias) against the bluest backdrop.
Then the most enchanting thresher appears. Graceful and elegant, they’re usually in deeper waters, and they venture up only to clean themselves, which gives us a fantastic opportunity for sightings. They have these doll-like eyes that seem to follow us; they glide through the water with their elongated, whip-like tails. It’s uncanny how a creature with such poise can be also terrifyingly savage, with its nimble tail stunning its unsuspecting prey.
During our recent visits, I’ve enjoyed lovely encounters where they swim around us in circles, as if quietly observing our presence. They probably view us as some sort of aliens, with our noisy bubbles and cumbersome equipment. We hover below, watching them get cleaned as quietly as we can. At the last moment, they seem almost skittish, and just as they gracefully appear out of nowhere, they swim past us and fade into the blue.
More than sharks
The island is more than just a haven for sharks; it is home to extraordinary critters. There’s the captivating but deadly blue-ringed octopus, the nearly indistinguishable pygmy seahorse (so miniscule that you find yourself squinting just to catch a glimpse!), and mating mandarin fish (size does matter, boys). A plethora of some of the best underwater life. In these pristine waters, boredom is simply not an option.
There is something profoundly humbling and exhilarating about sharing these fleeting moments with the ocean. To truly live at a tempo that feels more vibrant, as if nature knows something we’ve long forgotten.
Check out our Malapascua diaries, and Gutsy Tuason’s off-the-beaten-path diving adventures.
