From F/W 2026 runways, these were the ideas that showed up again and again.
Watching the Fall Winter 2026 menswear shows across Milan and Paris, we saw ideas and styles that keep showing up across the runways. Some returned to the same ideas but updated them, some went more adventurous. Each house is interpreting them in their own way. Coats grew more expressive, silhouettes narrowed. Knits carried more personality. Leather pull focus. Capes showed up in different designs and forms and pink appeared across different shows.
Capes everywhere
At Dries Van Noten, trench coats came with wide storm flaps that moved like short capes when worn. Issey Miyake worked with light, sculptural layers that sat above the shoulders and shifted with movement. Rick Owens added small cloak panels to puffers and coats. Prada showed layering utility-style capes over slim coats and Dior showed versions in jacquard, velvet, 3D flowers and floral prints.
Leather up!
Amiri showed pointed red leather cowboy boots, KidSuper worked with olive leather trousers, and Willy Chavarria sent out cropped leather windbreakers in berry tones. Wales Bonner used leather more sparingly, including a studded helmet-style accessory.
At Hermès, leather stayed front and center. Calfskin dominated, with one shiny look standing out with details like leather-trimmed scarves, patchwork knits, and soft floral prints on turtlenecks and tailored pieces.
Playful knits
Knits loosened up this season. Instead of sticking to plain colors, designers played with prints, symbols, and texture, while keeping sweater and cardigan shapes familiar. At Ralph Lauren, knits came with playful motifs. Others pulled things back. Dries Van Noten focused on texture rather than heavy prints, Giorgio Armani refreshed knits with stripes and subtle color shifts, while Moncler leaned into warmth, designing knits clearly meant for winter.
Slim silhouettes
This season’s menswear moved toward slimmer proportions. At Prada, there were slim-cut suits and outerwear. Raf Simons made it like a response to seasons of oversized clothing, focusing instead on softer shoulders and cleaner lines. Brunello Cucinelli followed with slimmer trousers in wool and cargo styles. Even Dior showed slimmer denim jeans and coats.
Pretty in pink
Pink was everywhere, too. It showed up across jackets, coats, and even inner layers, often used to soften a look or add a pop of color.
Hermès worked pink into refined outerwear and knits. Louis Vuitton layered it into coats, while Amiri in full looks. Jacquemus kept it fun and Prada slipped pink into outerwear.
