At Roen, the experience translates into a grilling operation that combines traditional Japanese techniques with the team’s own creative direction.
Grilling is almost elemental in the way it comes down to three things: grill, heat and what goes over it. There is also precision in that simplicity. It takes technique, experience and a good understanding of the fire and ingredients to get a piece of fish crisp-skinned without drying it out, or meat charred on the outside while remaining tender inside.
Roen, the newest Master Kitchen at Kiwami in SM Mall of Asia, takes pride in the mastery of Japanese grilling. Its name combines “Ro,” meaning hearth, and “En,” meaning feast. Robata is a Japanese style of cooking in which vegetables, seafood and meat are cooked over charcoal. While a robata grill may look similar to its Western counterpart, the approach to grilling, including how heat is managed, reflects a distinct culinary tradition.
Robata grilling puts the focus on the ingredients, with the heat carefully managed to bring out their natural flavors. Unlike barbecue styles that deliberately build a pronounced wood-smoke aroma, Roen keeps the smoky notes restrained. It uses bamboo ogatan charcoal for its relatively neutral flavor profile, allowing the distinct taste of the meat and fish to shine through.
Nicole Concepcion-Salud, brand manager of The Standard Group, said the company’s experience with Japanese grill concepts helped it develop the expertise to create its own brands.
Related story: El Gato, The Fat Cat, and Offbeat offer drinks you can eat, dishes you can sip
Related story: Think you know bibimbap? Wait ‘til you try Gyeongju’s version—with beef tartare on top
“I think something that’s very new to Standard Group is that we are really pushing the creation of our homemade brands. I think learning the technology and working with very talented consulting chefs from Japan has been the best for us, because we can really cater the menu to the market that we’re serving in,” she said.
At Roen, that experience translates into a grilling operation that combines traditional Japanese techniques with the team’s own creative direction. The chef and sous chefs work at their stations, adjusting the protein’s position over the heat as needed. The kitchen also has two dedicated grills, one for yakitori and another for larger cuts and plates, allowing each to be cooked according to its requirements.
“In Roen, our house of Robata, we combined traditional Japanese techniques which we were able to learn from our partners, so we really understand how to utilize a grill, but we also paired it with French sauce techniques, which we worked with our collaborator chef (Yuta) Saito,” said Concepcion-Salud. “So he created a mix of traditional Japanese and added his twist to the modern identity of it. Pinoys love sauce. We knew we needed that.”
Making adjustments to suit the Filipino palate extends to the ingredients, too. Concepcion-Salud said the menu is built around ingredients readily available in the Philippines. The French influence is evident in the plating, with the protein resting on a thin layer of sauce that complements it.
The Pompano with Miso Lemon Butter is served filleted, with the skin grilled to a crisp. The dish feels light, allowing the fish’s natural sweetness to come through. Roen gives its best-selling Hanger Steak a makeover, pairing the beef with chimichurri. The steak is melt-in-your-mouth tender, while the tangy sauce delivers a spicy kick. The chimichurri cuts through the richness of the meat, adding a bright contrast to every bite.
The Butabara with Garlic Lime Sauce is one of the most traditional offerings at Roen, and also where the robata really shines. As the pork belly cooks over charcoal, its fat renders, giving the meat a rich, buttery quality. The garlic-lime sauce provides a counterpoint to the richness of the meat, bringing balance to every bite. It’s divine!
The Tebasaki with Onion Milk puts a modern spin on a yakitori classic. The chicken wings remain juicy beneath a light char, which lends a faint bitterness to the flavor. The onion milk adds a subtle creaminess to finish the dish.
Perhaps the most surprising dish at Roen is the Yakisoba. Loaded with toppings like bacon, egg, and bonito flakes, it is very addictive. The noodles make for a satisfying end to the meal, soaking up the savory sauce and smoky flavors that tie the dish back to the robata offerings.
Roen’s menu is designed for sharing, encouraging a more communal dining experience. The skewers come in pairs, while the larger plates are meant to be passed around the table. It’s an approach that invites diners to sample different dishes together, making the meal as much about sharing food as it is about enjoying the flavors coming off the grill.
Roen, the newest Master Kitchen at Kiwami, is located at SM Mall of Asia.
Related story: After 14 years of saying no, Yushoken finally says yes
Related story: These cheeses are finding their way into Filipino kitchens
Related story: Beyond biryani: How a new generation of culinary auteurs is reclaiming the cuisines of India
