A wine masterclass at The Grand Hyatt Manila offers its own ritual—one that turns the clueless into the curious, and the curious into lifelong enthusiasts.
My knowledge of wine has never gone beyond tossing around the phrase “aging like fine wine” and never making the mistake of putting ice cubes in a glass of red. So, walking into The Cellar at Grand Hyatt Manila for a wine masterclass with Vega Sicilia and Macán, I felt very much like a rookie out of my depth.
Luckily, the inaugural masterclass “From Clasico to Cuvee,” in collaboration with Txanton, a gourmet shop for fine wines and Jamon Iberico, is an experience that takes newbies and connoisseurs alike on a journey of Spanish winemaking, wrapped in a harmony of gastronomic proportions and nuance.
The night began with a brief historical background on the origins of how Macán came to be led by Ignacio Calvo de Mora, general manager of Macán, and Cesar Roman, regional manager of Tempos Vega Sicilia. World renowned winery Vega Sicilia was founded in 1864 in northern Spain. After several ownership changes, the acquisition by the Álvarez family in 1982 led it to become a most sought-after wine. Enter Macán, their project in partnership with French wine producer Benjamin de Rothschild, representing the meeting of Spanish heritage and French expertise.
Aptly serenaded by a classical acoustic guitar, the night felt like being transported back to 19th-century Spain. The blending renditions of La Paloma-esque music reminiscent of Sebastián Iradier treated guests with a pairing of vertical tasting experience, which showcased the heritage and pedigree of Macán over the years.
Starting with Macán Clásico 2021, the first sip offers an accessible sweet sensation that complements its vibrant coloration. As Ignacio noted, “Macán Clásico spends a year between barrel and bottle, and the result is a beautiful sensation—very friendly, very fruity, and very fresh.” Like a firm handshake, it’s the perfect introduction to someone you do not know yet, but are very eager to meet.
Next is the Macán 2020. This one is a bit punchier than the previous glass. With a stronger aromatic note of ripe black fruits, cedar and a hint of cocoa, they describe this wine as confident and compelling right from the first pour. I may be overstepping my take on this as a beginner, but just seeing its darker color—almost purple in hue—this glass is more discerning in taste, smell, and experience. Someone who knows their wine will definitely feel at home.
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Now comes the Macán 2018, which is a step up from the two previous glasses. It is a bit more nuanced. After it was served, I mustered enough confidence to practice the 5 S’s for tasting and evaluating wine: see, swirl, sniff, sip, and savor. I find myself reeling. This was a foreign experience for the newbie. On the way down, it felt like it coated my mouth with more complex flavors and layered palate notes.
I find myself seeking advice from Ignacio. As I described what I experienced, he listened intently. “For aged wines, sometimes you have to give it more time,” he advised. “Swirl it a bit more, let it rest, and come back after a few minutes.”
As conversations flowed across the group, I took a gander around the room, paired a slice of the masterfully carved Jamón Ibérico de Bellota, and took another sip. Almost instantaneously, 2018 became my favorite. Billed as a vintage nuance and finesse, it humbled the likes of me, who rush into a carefully aged wine, not realizing the balance it imbues and the patience it requires.
The acidity of the grapes and the full-bodied characteristic of the wine is a graceful balance in taste and mouthfeel that simply leaves you wanting more.
And lastly, the Macán 2014 is the most expressive of the bunch. The wine’s complexity from the waft of tobacco and dark cherries down to the lingering taste, left a strong impression on my palate. Its dark garnet vibrance commands reverence from beginners, while beckoning the well-versed to a rich, layered experience that showcases Macan’s vision of winemaking.
The vertical tasting session was accompanied by a curated selection of pinxtos (traditional small snacks paired with wine in the northern regions of Spain) and canapés. Highlights included jamón croquettes with tomato chutney, baby gem Caesar salad with Idiazabal cheese (traditionally made by the Navarre community in Spain) with egg yolk confit, and a combination of various savory bites.
A note for aspiring wine lovers
On my way home, I kept thinking about how nervous I was coming into this masterclass. For years, I’ve had preconceived notions about wines as a cultural piece and an academic subject matter. In a candid conversation with Txanton’s General Manager Besay Gonzalez, I learned wines do not have to be contained within the discussion of precision and complex terminology.
Sometimes, it’s just a matter of looking at a menu or choosing a bottle without being intimidated because you’re simply ordering what you like and what you don’t. The implicit lesson of this masterclass, if I may, is that wines and the heritage behind them can be fun, carefree, and delicious.
I am reminded of an old portrait of our national heroes circa 1885-1886 in Paris, posted a few years back by renowned historian Ambeth Ocampo in his socials. There, we see our national hero, Jose Rizal, throwing what seems to be a fruit at the unconscious Trinidad Pardo de Tavera. Behind Rizal, Felix Resurreccion Hidalgo has already fallen asleep while the man next to him (people assume the waiter) appears to have joined the group and is possibly nursing a headache after a round of drinking.
To me, this photo perfectly captures the essence of Filipino drinking culture—spirited, social, and always rooted in togetherness. We love to drink as much for the company as for the glass in hand. And while wines have been cherished around the world for thousands of years, rediscovering them here invites even the clueless to become curious, and the intimidated to find joy in the experience.
