A new dining space within Mrs. Saldo’s in Silang, Cavite is part restaurant, part retail corner—and 100% Rhea Rizzo.
Friendship is not measured through time or proximity. A good friend is not necessarily someone that a person has spent the most time with, or somebody that knew you from birth. They do not have to always physically be present or, in today’s preferred form of PDA, be your most active follower on social media. Chef Rhea Rizzo (Mrs. Saldo’s) is a good friend, which is funny because until recently, even though we have always been friendly at events, she had the feeling I did not like her.
“I thought to myself ‘maybe hindi lang nya ako feel,” she said in half-jest, after I turned down one invite after another to visit her at the restaurant. Of course, she could not have been more wrong— it was merely our schedules refusing to match, pointing out that there was one time when I planned to go and she was in Singapore for a collaboration.
It did take me a while to visit her lushly landscaped property that contains her fine dining concept Mrs. Saldo’s and The Ikagai House— a stunning, modern-industrial vacation home for rent that Rizzo designed herself. I finally did, and it truly took way too long, because the moment I had Rizzo all to myself, I was instantly smitten.
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What finally got me traveling for two hours by car from Makati to Silang is to try Rizzo’s latest dining space, Little Miss Saldo’s. The fine casual concept embodies the same borderless, untethered cuisine Mrs. Saldo has become known for, but this time serving a la carte, which shares some of that freedom with the diner.
Classically trained in the culinary arts and influenced by Californian, French, and Southeast Asian cuisine, Rizzo is sometimes puzzled when kibitzers suggest that she focus on one cooking style. “I just refuse to be boxed in,” she admits, “when I feel an affinity for all the different cuisines I cook. Do we not say the food should reflect the personality of the chef? I have spent time in San Francisco, Bali, Chang Mai… all these places. And my training is French. So all these cultures, flavors, and cooking techniques make up who I am, therefore that is my food.”
Rizzo is, undeniably, reflected in a rich and soothing portobello and porcini veloute, but just as profoundly present in crispy cha gio dipped in sweet, salty, and sour nuoc cham. She plays with offal on skewers through inasal-seasoned pork liver and tender ox tongue teriyaki topped with wakame salad (a surprising favorite). She raises the decibel on comfort food with her montecristo which is perfectly crisp on the outside while cheesy and gooey in the inside, then gives chicken wings an Asian twist with Thai flavors and a caramel-patis dipping sauce.
This is not fusion cuisine, by the way. While Rizzo likes to keep her menu diverse, the cooking styles and ethnic flavors almost never merge. In fact, I love it when her classical training shines through, like in her perfectly pan-seared barramundi with beurre noisette, a mahi-mahi pilpil with cauliflower puree, and a classic duck confit with potato dauphinoise.
She still likes to go maximalist at times and gets creative with her proteins, like an apple-soy marinated flank steak and lamb ribs with massaman curry which was a surprising hit with the kids. Regardless if she’s pulling back or letting it all go, her flavors are always balanced and refined, demonstrating a creativity tempered by maturity and experience.
The desserts here are not to be missed. In fact, I highly recommend a side trip to Little Miss Saldo’s after lunch nearby for coffee and sweets. The honey butter toast is a must-order, so is the sticky toffee pudding, and chocoholics will not be disappointed with the dark chocolate tart.
During our visit, the dining rooms were exclusively serving ala carte, awaiting the new tasting menu that Rizzo had yet to put together. They seem to have gained their footing since a holiday tasting menu has recently been released, composed of dishes that have become bestsellers from the Little Miss Saldo’s menu. It is, for lack of a better explanation, very Rhea.
This selection of favorites offers a glimpse into Rizzo’s travels and experiences; her loves, her great joys, and yes, even her pain. It is a menu that embodies the chef who created it—multi-faceted, nurturing, and easy to love.
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