Beyond ramen: Menya Kokoro’s take on Japanese dry noodles

Menya Kokoro offers a hard-to-beat culinary delight in San Juan.

The third branch of Tokyo’s mazesoba pioneer Menya Kokoro brings their unique hearty bowls and spirited tipples to San Juan’s burgeoning Mabini St., which diners can now enjoy even past mall hours.

Nestled seamlessly within the newly launched Gallery 7 showroom and lifestyle center, Menya Kokoro offers a hard-to-beat culinary delight in this part of town. The area buzzes with a mix of established and up-and-coming restaurants and cafés, all thriving in a relaxed, laid-back atmosphere—far removed from the congestion of traffic-clogged malls and commercial hubs.

Youthful and curious, Takuma Ishikawa was captivated by mazesoba, the dry noodle dish from Nagoya. A decade ago, he opened his first shop, paving the way for what is now the world’s largest and award-winning mazesoba chain, boasting 60 locations across Japan and beyond.

Menya Kokoro founder and chef Takuma Ishikawa

 “Kokoro means heart and menya means noodles,” Ishikawa shared at the San Juan branch opening.

In the world of traditional ramen, mazesoba offers a unique twist, standing apart from the usual broth-rich bowls. Defined by its lack of soup, this dry noodle dish is easily recognizable—though Menya Kokoro also serves a soup-style version for those craving a more classic touch.

The straightforward simplicity of mazesoba was one of the characteristics that attracted franchise partner Malvin Ang in bringing Menya Kokoro to the Philippines, which opened two earlier branches at The Podium and Uptown Mall in BGC before San Juan. “Since it’s dry ramen, the quality was easier to maintain, less difficult than other kinds of ramen,”  Ang said.

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For newcomers, the classic Tokyo mazesoba is both a delightful surprise and a perfect introduction to this unique dish. Thick, chewy wheat noodles are coated in a rich, spicy minced pork sauce, creating an irresistible depth of flavor despite the absence of broth. Garlic, nori, chives, and a perfectly poached egg come together in a satisfying medley, each bite a testament to the dish’s addictive appeal.

Breaded delights from the izakaya grill.

While a dash of kombu-infused vinegar can be added for an extra layer of umami, the harmony of the main ingredients alone delivers a truly heartwarming experience. In case there’s leftover pork, a small scoop of oi-meshi or Japanese rice mixed once again will hit the spot for sure.

The Tokyo mazesoba serves as a canvas for bold and hearty variations, each offering a unique twist on the beloved dish. From the all-in Zanbu, packed with slow-braised chashu pork, bamboo shoots, and even cheese, to a vegan mazesoba that swaps pork with tofu, there’s a bowl for every palate. Adventurous diners can also indulge in cheese, curry, or unagi-infused mazesoba, while newer temptations like Bolognese-style mazesoba nod to the Yoshoku tradition—Western flavors reimagined through a Japanese lens.

Mazesoba offers a unique twist, standing apart from the usual broth-rich noodle bowls by its lack of soup.

Beyond the noodles, a selection of izakaya-style bites made their way to our table, giving us a taste of Menya Kokoro’s take on grilled and fried favorites in a laid-back setting. Those craving something more traditional won’t be left out—classic ramen, rice bowls, and staples like tempura, karaage, and tofu round out the menu.

A well-curated beverage program complements the feast, from refreshing peach iced tea and house-made tipples to ice-cold Sapporo beer.

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One unexpected highlight? Their expertly crafted gyoza—delicately wrapped, perfectly balanced between savory and slightly sweet, and refreshingly free of unnecessary embellishments. One bite in, and we were already ordering a second round.

Other samplers are sticks of grilled chicken, pork liver which we enjoyed with a dash of wasabi, along with tiger prawns, Japanese sausage, cheese and eggplant covered in a corndog-like batter.

Like anything made from the heart, Menya Kokoro’s genre-bending dry noodle creations are a welcome addition to the area. With their bold flavors, comforting appeal, and wallet-friendly prices, they offer a satisfying escape—one that’s rich in taste yet refreshingly free of any fussy trappings.

Menya Kokoro’s newest branch is located at G/F Gallery 7, A. Mabini St., San Juan.

The new lifestyle.