Alexander Wang is back at NYFW with his 20th anniversary show “The Matriarch”

A comeback show that honors his mother and the “alpha females” who shaped his work.

Alexander Wang is officially back on the New York Fashion Week calendar after seven years away. On Friday night, the designer staged his Spring 2026 collection, The Matriarch, inside the former Citizens Savings Bank on Bowery in Chinatown. The space, which Wang and his family recently purchased, will eventually be turned into a cultural and community center, but for now it was the backdrop for a milestone: the brand’s 20th anniversary and Wang’s most significant comeback since 2018.

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Many of the outfits in the show were short and structured. Models wore ultra-mini shirtdresses, cropped suits, and vests with argyle patterns. Wang used materials to give classic styles a fresh look like cardigans made from metal yarn and lace that looked like chainmail. Some clothes had slashes at the hips or chest to show more skin. Jackets were shaped and fitted, while slip dresses had lace details and shiny finishes

Wang also introduced a clever idea he called “convertibility.” One of the most talked-about pieces was a faux fur coat that first appeared on the runway as a dramatic outer layer. In the next look, the coat was removed to reveal a fitted black dress underneath but the same fluffy faux fur trim remained along the hem. This showed how one piece could be worn in multiple ways.

The runway also introduced new technology. Wang debuted a 3D-printed, zero-waste stiletto called The Griphoria, developed with HILOS, a US-based footwear tech company that specializes in 3D-printed shoes made on demand. By producing footwear digitally and only when it’s ordered, HILOS reduces waste and avoids the heavy stockpiling common in fashion. Wang’s use of their process tied the show to sustainability and technology while also showing he is looking beyond fabric for innovation.

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Wang’s last official NYFW show was in 2018, after which he staged off-calendar events to reassess his business. In 2020, he faced multiple sexual misconduct allegations, which he first denied before apologizing publicly in 2021. While he continued showing collections privately and grew his business in China, his reputation in the US dimmed. Coming back to the calendar in 2025 signals both a reassertion of the brand in its home city and a bid to reset the narrative around his work.

The show was followed by an afterparty inside the building, which included a Mahjong tournament and performances from Asian artists. This preview tied into Wang’s long-term plans for the Bowery site, which he has said will open in 2026 as a family-led project with a focus on bridging East and West cultures.

Wang last showed on the official NYFW calendar in 2018. His return comes at a pivotal moment with the brand expanding internationally and marking two decades in business. 

Watch the full show below:

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