It’s the first collection presented without Giorgio Armani and the first designed under the sole direction of his niece and longtime collaborator.
The Spring/Summer 2026 couture show for Giorgio Armani Privé marked a clear transition for the house. It was the first collection presented without Giorgio Armani and the first designed under the sole direction of Silvana Armani, his niece and longtime collaborator. Rather than frame the moment as a dramatic turning point, Silvana approached it as a recalibration, adjusting proportions, and grounding couture more firmly in wearability.
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Silvana Armani has worked alongside her uncle for more than 40 years, beginning as a model, briefly serving as a receptionist, and eventually moving into the design studio. Her career has spanned Emporio Armani, the main women’s line, and Armani Privé since its launch in 2005. With this debut, she steps forward not as a newcomer but as someone deeply familiar with the house’s codes. She is also currently the only woman leading a Paris couture maison.
The collection was built around jade, a color and symbol chosen for its associations with balance and harmony. Celadon green, champagne, pale pink, white, and black formed a restrained palette that ran consistently through the show. Silvana reduced the lineup to 60 looks, down from the house’s usual hundred.
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The show opened with tailoring, a key part of Armani’s identity. Jackets looked softer and more relaxed, others without lapels, and were paired with wide palazzo trousers in silk cady. Some had as many as ten pleats on each side, creating movement without feeling heavy. Organza shirts and sheer ties lightened the look, while fine glass beads traced the edges of jackets. Accessories were kept to a minimum, a clear choice that pointed to Silvana Armani’s preference for a cleaner, more modern approach.
Many looks were built around trousers, including cocktail outfits designed to work from day into evening. Knitwear also played a role, with sparkly mesh sweaters and tunic-style tops worn in an easy, relaxed way, reflecting a growing interest in elevated knits across couture this season.
Crystal embroidery appeared often, but the shapes stayed simple and precise. Some gowns were layered with tiny crystals to add depth without adding weight. Others paired structured bodices with long skirts made from curved panels that moved smoothly as the models walked.. One standout look was a slim column dress fully covered in translucent crystals, worn under a black satin opera coat lined in soft green.
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But the final look carried strong emotional meaning. The final bridal gown was designed by Giorgio Armani himself for a previous Armani Privé collection but was never shown on the runway. The long-sleeved white dress featured a fitted bodice that opened into a fluted skirt and was embroidered with circular sequins. Its appearance this season stood out, especially as bridal looks have returned across some couture runways.
Speaking after the show, she noted that while she conceived the collection independently, her uncle’s presence was never far from mind. Asked whether he would have changed anything in her debut, she replied, “No, but I’m sure he would add something,” she told WWD. The bridal look functioned as a closing note that referenced the founder’s legacy.
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Watch the full show below:
