Balmain has long mastered the art of opulence. Its new collection, however, is commanding attention for its elegant simplicity.
Opulence and oddity have long been the standard for drumming up attention in the fashion world. Think of the wildly exaggerated dresses in Marc Jacobs’ Spring 2025 capsule and how Moschino owned trash bag couture in its Fall/Winter 2025 show.
Balmain would know, especially with creative director Olivier Rousteing crafting collections that explored the bold and vibrant in the last 14 years. The French fashion house continued to command attention during its Fall/Winter 2025 show, but this time, for its transformative collection that reflected Rosteing’s evolution from opulence to sophisticated simplicity.
Unveiled on March 6 at the Paris Fashion Week, Balmain’s F/W 2025 collection marks a departure from the brand’s traditional anti-quiet luxury style, which is defined by sharp shoulders, heavy embellishments, and almost warrior-like femininity, to ensembles that seamlessly combine softness and edge.
Related story: Beauty takes center stage in Balmain’s daring S/S25 collection at Paris Fashion Week
Related story: Haider Ackermann, newly appointed creative director, keeps Tom Ford’s F/W 2025 collection sleek and polished
Reflecting on the concept of the new capsule, Rousteing shared, “I was known for the Balmain army and for a kind of loudness and sexiness. Now, I feel there’s more sensuality. She’s still the same woman—she’s just evolving.”
The collection marks Balmain’s new era, kicking off with pieces that reflect how the change is led by comfort. Hooded silhouettes, sculptural knitwear, and fluid drapery show how the maison is dressing down for fall and winter but still does it with style through bold patterns, diverse textures, and statement accessories.
Rousteing opened Wednesday’s show with his signature hooded silhouettes: draped sweaters paired with a leather peplum, relaxed trousers, or an oversized cloak. Although casual, each of the knitwear was jazzed up with bold touches, from gold bangles to a pair of knee-high slouchy boots.
Then came the groutfits, or outfits completely made out of gray, which is considered one of the main highlights of the new capsule. Gray mélange has never been seen in Rousteing’s collection until now. Its inclusion in this season’s collection represents Balmain’s departure from its signature metallics, further establishing the house’s new era grounded on understated and sophisticated style.
While the ensembles are completely monotone, they ooze personality with their mix of textures from a ruched top, pleated skirt, or embossed trousers. For looks where the texture is flat, Rousteing added flavorful twists in the form of tangerine fur coats and straight-cut boots, as well as slouchy burgundy leather boots or pairs that come with striking animal prints.
Optical zebra patterns and crocodile-embossed leather added just the right amount of drama sans the excess in the collection. They come in different shapes—from an oversized cloak and puffy jacket to a long-sleeve jumpsuit and halter bodycon dresse—that all maintain Balmain’s powerful persona but from a new perspective.
Rousteing infused glamour into the refined collection through a vibrant color palette, where tantalizing tangerine, sunshine yellow, delicate lilac, and vivid sage created the perfect contrast with timeless grays and deep navy blue ensembles.
Watch the full Balmain Fall/Winter 2025 show below.
Related story: Chic and comfy: Chloé’s winter 2025 collection feels like springtime
Related story: No creative director, no drama. Gucci keeps it classic and rooted in its heritage for F/W 2025
