Daniel Lee stages Tower Bridge under scaffolding at Old Billingsgate and reworks the trench for after-dark London.
Burberry closed London Fashion Week with its Winter 2026 show at Old Billingsgate. Creative director Daniel Lee, who has led the brand since 2022, built the season around a clear idea: London at night and the way people dress to go out in the cold.
The result was a 56-look collection centered on outerwear, especially the trench, set against a stage that looked like the city itself.
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A London skyline under construction
The show took place at Old Billingsgate, the former 19th-century fish market along the River Thames. Inside, a replica of Tower Bridge rose behind scaffolding. The skyline appeared partially covered, like many London landmarks during renovation. Resin puddles spread across the runway floor, reflecting light like wet pavement, all against deep blue lighting.
Lee has described London as a place that is always evolving. The set mirrored that idea while bringing the brand firmly back to the city after previous countryside-inspired seasons.
The iconic trench, updated
The trench coat remains Burberry’s foundation. First developed as a military garment during World War I, it continues to define the house. For Winter 2026, Lee focused on pushing its shape and texture.
Some trenches featured ruffled collars and were belted as dresses, styled with sheer tights and Mary Jane heels. Others came in bouclé fabric, leather or woven check, with fur collars adding warmth. One version had a vintage map of London woven into the fabric, showing the Thames running through the city. The same map appeared on invitations and silk scarves gifted to guests.
Faux-fur trenches were finished with fringe. Long knitted versions were cinched with leather belts keeping a link to the coat’s military origins while shifting it into eveningwear.
Winter layers with edge
Beyond the trench, the collection focused on clothes made for cold nights in the city.
Shearling coats with raw edges were layered over silk dresses or leather trousers. The styling felt straightforward, reflecting how Londoners pull pieces together before stepping outside. The palette stayed mainly black and white, with deep blues and purples adding depth.
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Leather kilts, bomber jackets paired with slim track trousers, and structured wool coats with leather lapels or stand-up collars introduced a sharper tone. Fringe, beads and sequins appeared across select pieces, adding that shimmer without overpowering the collection.
A British cast and soundtrack
The runway included appearances from Romeo Beckham and Rosie Huntington-Whiteley. The show was soundtracked by longtime collaborator Benji B alongside FKA twigs, reinforcing the London focus.
Winter 2026 returned Burberry to its urban roots. By centering the collection on outerwear, night dressing and the reality of wet city streets, Lee delivered a season that stayed close to the brand’s history while grounding it firmly in present-day London.
Watch the full show below:
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