This season marked the final couture collection designed by the in-house studio team before Matthieu Blazy’s debut in October.
For Fall-Winter 2025/26, the house returned to its roots, literally and visually. The show was held at the Grand Palais, but the set was designed to mirror 31 rue Cambon, the address of Chanel’s original haute couture salons. The space was outfitted with mirrored walls, white carpeting, and beige banquettes to replicate the luxury of the fittings Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel once held behind closed doors.
Each guest received a copy of Chanel Haute Couture, a gold-embossed coffee table book edited by Sofia Coppola to mark 110 years of Chanel haute couture. This season marked the final couture collection designed by the in-house studio team before Matthieu Blazy’s debut in October. While he didn’t design this collection, his influence is beginning to surface. The clothes held close to the Chanel archive but moved subtly forward.
Related story: Chanel celebrates 100 years in UK with new arts and culture magazine
Related story: Chanel unveils Cruise 2026 collection in majestic Lake Como
Related story: Elegance and endurance: Chanel does a poetic play on proportions in F/W collection
It also leaned heavily on natural tones: ivory, moss green, black, gold, and browns. Tweed, the house’s signature fabric, was the focus but appeared in new forms: in capes, layered with ribbon, fringed, or embroidered to create depth.
For the eveningwear, gowns in layered chiffon moved lightly, while lace added soft shine. A standout piece was a strappy black-and-white dress with feather-like embroidery. The design was consistent. Hand-embroidery, layered textures, and tailoring held the collection together.
A repeated motif throughout the collection was the wheat sheaf. It showed up as gold buttons, delicate embroidery on skirts and coats, and on the neckline of the final bridal gown. The bride, wearing a soft ivory dress, carried a bouquet made entirely of gilded wheat.
Related story: Chanel names Matthieu Blazy as new artistic director
Related story: Change is coming to Chanel. Who will replace creative director Virginie Viard?
Related story: Chanel’s dreamy 2025 Métiers d’Art show evokes the magic of Chinese culture
As Bruno Pavlovsky, president of fashion at Chanel, noted after the show, this wasn’t a reset but a “gradual handover.” Matthieu Blazy, who officially joined the house in April, reportedly attended the show quietly. With his debut expected in October, this season marked the end of the transition and a bow for the team that sustained Chanel during a pivotal stretch.
The front row matched the weight of the moment. Sofia Coppola, who edited the commemorative book, attended with her daughters Romy and Cosima. Longtime ambassadors Penélope Cruz and Keira Knightley returned in signature Chanel looks. Lorde, Gracie Abrams, Liu, Laufey, and Naomi Campbell were present as well. It was indeed a full house.
Watch the full show:
