As the first designer to lead all divisions of the house since Christian Dior himself, Anderson faces high expectations.
Jonathan Anderson’s debut menswear collection for Dior was shown at Hôtel des Invalides, where Napoleon’s tomb lies. It served as the backdrop to one of the most closely watched debuts of the season. As the first designer since Christian Dior himself to lead all divisions of the house—from men’s, women’s, and haute couture—Anderson faces high expectations.
Anderson reintroduced tailoring with a slight twist. The silhouettes were mostly classic, but something was always a little off, like the fabric, the size, or a raw detail left on purpose.
Baggy pants were matched with neater, more fitted pieces. Big cravats, tied neatly at the neck, were paired with oversized coats or knitted tops. Some outfits had fisherman sandals with socks or worn-in sneakers, giving everything a laidback feel, but nothing looked messy.
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The color palette stuck to gentle shades: soft salmon, greens, faded denim, dusty blue, cream. Paired with airy fabrics and easy layering, the tones made even the quirkier pieces feel wearable.
What also got our attention was the green cape reminiscent of the vintage 1966 Dior Couture green wool coat.
The Dior Book Tote, first introduced under Maria Grazia Chiuri, came back with an update, and this time printed with literary covers, including Dracula by Bram Stoker.
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Anderson, who heads his own label JW Anderson, and was formerly at Loewe, is known for mixing British classics with a playful, gender-fluid twist. At Dior, that energy is more restrained, but still present. A subtle rebellion, if you will. And instead of chasing big statements, he focused on small, intentional choices. Anderson nods to Dior’s legacy but also leaves space to play.
Watch the full show below:
