Every piece was an homage to Armani, whose philosophy of stripping away the unnecessary created lightness as the highest form of power.
Giorgio Armani’s 50th collection was a heartfelt finale to the iconic designer’s era. The collection, personally directed by Armani, featured over 120 looks that recognize his five decades of work and enduring legacy in fashion.
Its runway show came in the wake of his passing on September 4 and was originally intended as a celebration of the fashion house’s 50th anniversary. It was staged at Pinacoteca di Brera, an 18th-century Neoclassical building in Milan, the city Armani called home for the better part of his life.
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Paper lanterns illuminated the courtyard, as they did at Armani’s public wake at the Armani/Teatro in early September. Hollywood A-listers were present to honor the “King of Fashion” at his final Milan Fashion Week show. Richard Gere, whose role in American Gigolo helped launch Armani’s career in fashion, was there and so was Glenn Close who, according to New York Times, bought her first Armani jacket in 1983. Cate Blanchett, an ambassador of the house since 2013, also paid tribute to the late visionary.
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Acclaimed actors paid tribute to the late visionary in his 50th and final runway show in Milan Fashion Week. | Photos from WWD
Models who walked for Armani in the past 50 years returned to showcase the collection “Pantelleria, Milan,” which is inspired by two places dear to Armani: Milan and Pantelleria. Milan, where Armani lived, symbolized urban modernity, while Pantelleria, a small volcanic island where he had a holiday home, represented untamed nature that both anchored Armani’s vision.
The show opened with the designer’s “power suit,” which became the very foundation of his style. They featured deconstructed, minimalist silhouettes, refined tailoring, and high-quality fabrics that altogether created a signature drapy effect. They came in sand and pearl gray, reaffirming the suit’s purpose of presenting elegance in its most essential and classic form.
The deconstructed suits conversed with soft jackets and fluid trousers in shared palettes and mirror cuts. This fluidity created a strong sensuality that blurred the line between masculine and feminine. It aligns with Armani’s philosophy that continuity—in his signature light tailoring and timeless silhouettes—is the most revolutionary act in a world obsessed with constant change and novelty.
Armani’s mastery of the polished yet laid-back style was likewise reflected in pinted silks and textured knits, as well as gauzy tops worn over sequined or iridescently patterned dresses. It was also present in chiffon gowns and liquid silhouettes that carried the impression of “weightless clothes, with a light elegance that is memorable,” the brand said in the show notes.
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Like the designer’s five-decade career, the show followed a natural progression, beginning with creamy whites and soft neutrals before moving to mineral gray, midnight blue, and a flash of vibrant purple. Fabrics also traced the transition from day to night in crisp cottons, thin silks, and supple velvets. “Everything appears fluid, light, as if ready to yield to the island’s winds,” the maison noted.
It was an homage not only to Milan and Pantelleria, but more so to Armani, whose philosophy of stripping away the unnecessary created lightness as the highest form of power.
The final dress in the show—a soft, glittering gown in deep blue and radiant purple—was a spectacle of softness and transparencies. It was worn by one of Armani’s favorite models, Agnese Zogla, and featured an image of Armani’s face, drawing a standing ovation from the show’s 700 guests.
“This collection, the last Giorgio Armani worked on personally, is in some ways a testament to style and the close of a cycle, so that new ones may begin,” the brand said. It embodies his lifelong philosophy: “Elegance is not about being noticed, it’s about being remembered.”
After the final look, Armani’s niece Silvana Armani and his partner and collaborator Leo Dell’Orco walked on the runway and took the late visionary’s final curtain call. Guests were later led to the “Per Amore” exhibition at the Giorgio Armani: Milano, which showcased 150 archival looks created by Armani throughout his momentous five-decade career.
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