At the heart of the collection is a literal living dress inhabited by 125 million bioluminescent algae.
Paris Fashion Week has always been about pushing boundaries. With so much talent and passion crammed into a few days, even top designers have to muster every ounce of their creative juices to stand out. We’ve seen them experiment and play with colors, textures, and textile, creating not just items of clothing but works of art.
One such designer who has enthralled fashion lovers is Iris van Herpen. She may not be associated with any major fashion group such as LVMH and Kering, choosing to be among couture’s last independent creatives, but the Dutch fashion designer has never failed to make an impact with her collections.
Since opening her eponymous label in 2007, van Herpen has thrived and attracted a loyal following thanks to her bold creations, known for fusing innovation and technology with traditional craftsmanship. She counts among her admirers A-listers such as Lady Gaga, Beyoncé, Björk, Scarlett Johansson, and Natalie Portman, who all share her knack for blazing trails and passion for chosen advocacies.
Related story: For Fall 2025/26, Chanel Couture revisits its roots as it prepares for a new chapter
Related story: The artistic duality of women in Chloé’s Spring 2026 collection
At Paris Fashion Week, the 41-year-old yet again showcased her artistic—and scientific!—prowess with her 2026 autumn/winter collection that sees the coming together of biology, art, and style.
Titled Sympoiesis, the collection examines the “growing fragility of the interdependence between the organic and technological,” per the show notes. Drawing inspiration from the ocean and guided by James Lovelock’s Gaia theory, van Herpen examines the earth’s waters not as a singular ecosystem but as part of a wider “biospheric consciousness.” We are one with the ocean, that which gives and sustains life.
Related story: Couture gets a futuristic twist at Schiaparelli’s Fall 2025/26 show
Related story: Inside Michael Rider’s first Celine show at Paris Fashion Week
Following this philosophy, van Herpen showcased gossamer gowns and voluminous silhouettes that bring to mind the ocean’s ever-undulating waves. She also introduced wedding gowns crafted from lab-grown bio-protein, a Japanese fiber that’s not only biodegradable but endlessly recyclable. These creations reflect not only van Herpen’s singular vision and unique fashion sense, but also her genuine concern for our world that’s on the brink of catastrophe.
At the heart of this mesmerizing collection is a living dress—literally. Van Herpen collaborated with biodesigner Chris Bellamy for a first-of-its-kind “living look,” a “dress” that’s inhabited by 125 million bioluminescent algae which emit light in response to movement.
The algae used (Pyrocystis Lunula) was grown in sea-water baths over several months within a specialized nutrient gel, as explained in the show notes. They were then moulded into a protective membrane amid conditions that not only mimic their natural marine home (humidity, temperature, and circadian rhythm are strictly controlled), but is also a microcosm of the ocean itself. The garment, van Herpen clarifies, is cultivated rather than constructed.
Related story: Balenciaga honors a decade of Demna with free exhibit in Paris
Related story: Prada promotes sustainability through ocean literacy, regenerated nylon
Further enhancing the sensory experience is a special scent dispersed in waves throughout the show. The perfume is a product of van Herpen’s collaboration with master perfumer Francis Kurkdjian and matches the ethereal atmosphere of the venue and the collection.
“This collection is a collaboration with nature itself. In this time of biodiversity loss, biodesign invites us to rethink the way we ‘use’ materials, to visualize a future where all human design is not just inspired by nature, but integrated with it,” says Van Herpen in a statement on her label’s website.
“It highlights the interdependence between humans and nature, viewing the body not as isolated, but as an ecosystem – where fashion becomes alive, responsive, and deeply connected with the natural world.”
With her hypnotic and thought-provoking new collection, Iris van Herpen wowed the fashion world once more—not only with the breadth of her talent, but more so with the depth of her passion to harness style with the hope of engendering a better world.
Related story: Going green: London Fashion Week adopts brand sustainability requirements
Related story: A long overdue shift: Secondhand fashion takes on London Fashion Week’s runways
Related story: Japanese label CFCL’s S/S 2025 collection shows us that sustainable can be stylish, too
