The collection was built like a cabinet of collected items, where art objects, natural forms, and clothing sit side by side.
Jonathan Anderson presented his first haute couture collection for Dior at Paris Haute Couture Week last night. The starting point was nature, not as decoration, but as a system. In his show notes, Anderson described nature as something that never settles, always changing, adapting, and continuing. He positioned couture in the same way.
Related story: Dior Homme’s Winter ‘26-‘27 show is Jonathan Anderson having more fun
Related story: Jonathan Anderson’s first Dior womenswear collection marks a confident rebrand
For Anderson, haute couture is a place to test ideas. A working space where old techniques stay relevant because they are still used. This idea of couture as “living knowledge” shaped the entire collection.
He approached his first couture outing as a collector. Rather than designing around trends, he gathered objects and references that carry meaning, then brought them together. The collection was built like a cabinet of collected items, where art objects, natural forms, and clothing sit side by side. That approach showed up clearly in the references: Cyclamen flowers, given by John Galliano and the ceramic works of Magdalene Odundo
Why cyclamen was everywhere
The popular flowering plant cyclamen appeared in the invitations, film, ceiling of the venue, and in the clothes.
The reason was personal. A few days ahead of the presentation, Jonathan Anderson posted a photo on Instagram showing a Tesco shopping bag beside a small bunch of wild cyclamen. He explained that before his first Dior womenswear show, the first person he showed the collection to was John Galliano, who arrived with cyclamen tied with black ribbons and a bag of sweets from Tesco for the team. Anderson described the flowers as deeply meaningful and later referred to them as a symbolic handover.
Galliano led Dior for 14 years during the 2000s. For Anderson, referencing that gesture marked continuity, linking his couture debut to Dior’s recent history. Anderson kept that moment in mind and decided to share the same flower with everyone at his couture debut.
The flower also links back to Dior’s history. Christian Dior loved gardening and often used flowers as inspiration.
Before the models walked, Dior showed a short film. It opened with flowers and ceramic pieces, then moved inside the ateliers. The camera focused on hands, pins, scissors, measuring tape, and fabric being shaped.
Another major influence on the collection came from the ceramic work of Magdalene Odundo, whose handcrafted vessels are known for their rounded forms and human-like proportions. Anderson has been a fan of her work, and for this collection, that inspired the shapes we all saw on the runway.
Unto the clothes…
The first looks were sculptural dresses made from pleated fabric in black, white, and burnt orange. A version of this shape had already appeared in Anderson’s earlier Dior work, but couture allowed him to push it further.
The dresses were built from fine tulle, pleated by hand and stitched onto inner supports. These supports held the shape. There was no heavy padding. The volume came from how the fabric was placed.
The dresses had rounded hems tied into bows. Others lifted away from the body at the shoulders or hips. Chiffon and organza were layered to add lightness. Netting was placed over larger shapes to soften them.
Knitwear also appeared in the collection. Sweater dresses were made by hand and treated with the same care as gowns.
Flowers and plant references continued to appear even on the accessories and jewelry. Some looks featured silk flowers shaped into brooches and earrings. Others used plant forms more literally, including a plant umbrella and shoes covered in floral elements. There are also ladybug minaudières and jewelry made from fossils and meteorite fragments.
After the runway presentation, the show space was set to become an exhibition titled Grammar and Form, placing pieces from the couture collection alongside archival works by Christian Dior and ceramic pieces by Magdalene Odundo.
Watch the full show below
Related story: Jonathan Anderson opens a new chapter at Dior Homme S/S26
Related story: Dior Cruise 2026 weaves a grand romantic tale on Roman theater
Related story: New Lewis Hamilton and Dior collection celebrates the Formula One legend’s heritage
