Titled “Heirloom,” Espina’s 30-piece capsule is exclusively available at the ArteFino Fair from July 31 to August 3.
As in all things creative, younger artists take inspiration from old masters, those that came before them whose wisdom and experience are but priceless guides as they hone their craft and find their own voice or style. Such is the case for fashion designer Jor-El Espina, whose latest collection “Heirloom” was inspired by the grande dame of Philippine fashion, Patis Tesoro.
Tesoro needs little introduction. The 74-year-old has long been considered a pillar of the local fashion industry, boasting a celebrated career that spans over five decades. She is credited for reviving the piña fabric industry and spinning modern twists to the baro’t saya. She is also a pioneer in using fashion as a means to preserve heritage, an advocacy she continues to be passionate about to this day.
While not exactly a newbie in the fashion circle, Espina, meanwhile, has been steadily cementing his status as one of the country’s finest when it comes to modern Filipiniana. Based in Iloilo, he opened his first Manila atelier last year, just in time for his 20th anniversary in the industry.
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With Tesoro’s wisdom and techniques as his north star, Espina came up with a stunning 30-piece collection that’s both a glimpse of Tesoro’s enduring legacy and reflection of Espina’s undeniable talent. Aptly titled “Heirloom,” the series is not just a product of young talent, but a legacy of one of Philippine fashion’s enduring icons.
In a statement, Espina shared that the idea to create a collection inspired and guided by Tesoro was born during a visit to her home in San Pablo, Laguna in late 2024. “I was invited by the ladies of ArteFino to join them for a visit to Patis’ home. It was while we were enjoying her space and company that we began to explore the idea of a special collection for ArteFino,” he recalled. “It was really because of the ladies and their generous endorsement that this dream project was brought to life.”
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After that fateful visit to Tesoro’s home-studio, Espina found himself pulled deeper and deeper into the world of the Filipinana matriarch. “As a designer, I am naturally inclined to study my references, especially when it comes to Philippine fashion,” explained Espina.
“I’ve followed the work and journey of Patis closely, and often find similarities in our design sensibilities,” he continued. “We both like to combine rich details whether it be through vibrant colors, patchwork, embroidery, or beadwork. In that sense, I can say that this is something very familiar to me. It almost feels like home.”
I wanted to make sure that every single garment reflected (Tesoro’s) essence. More than a collaboration, this is a tribute; my way of honoring Patis Tesoro.”
However, Espina wasn’t content to study Tesoro’s work through archival materials. In fact, a creative exchange ensued between the two designers over long conversations spent at the latter’s Laguna home. Espina found himself spending afternoons in the 74-year-old’s workshop, taking in the techniques that make a Patis Tesoro garment a piece of wearable art and fashion history.
“It was so enriching to watch the artisans in her shop bring her designs to life. During these visits, I really began to value the work that Patis has done to preserve our traditions of craft,” he said of those visits.
Back at his own atelier, one question remained at the back of his mind while working on “Heirloom”: What would it be like to enter the world of Patis? This served as his compass as he went about designing a collection that’s not only inspired by Tesoro, but one that’s proudly and undeniably Jor-El Espina’s.
Once the pieces were completed, Espina made the journey back to San Pablo to show them to Tesoro. “Her blessing, guidance, feedback, and advice were integral to this collection. I was eager to learn, and Patis was generous with her knowledge,” he said. “I wanted to make sure that every single garment reflected her essence. More than a collaboration, this is a tribute; my way of honoring Patis Tesoro.”
Finally, on July 16, after almost a year from his first visit to Tesoro’s home, Espina saw his creations launched to deafening applause. The venue was perfect as it is thoughtful: Shang-ri La Makati’s lobby, the elegance of which matches Tesoro’s timeless grace. A few minutes before four in the afternoon, over high tea and with the sunlight streaming through the lobby’s floor-to-ceiling windows, the models started sashaying in.
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Sixteen of the 30 looks were previewed. As expected, there were modern, bolder takes on the baro’t saya and piña tops. Looks that seemed like elevated daster, the Filipino mom’s favorite pambahay, caught my eye. I liked how the humble piece of clothing, so deeply entrenched in our culture, was given the spotlight and high fashion treatment. There were also two ensembles that took their cue from the Japanese kimono. Each garment is multi-functional and can be worn with the other pieces in the capsule.
What struck me were the colors and the intricacy of the embroidery, patchwork, hand painting—hallmarks of a Tesoro creation. Espina’s touch, meanwhile, was reflected in the bold colors and playful ensembles. Each piece showed it was made with love, care, and a whole lot of inspiration. Tesoro must be proud of Espina’s collection.
“The intention was to bring the brilliance of Patis to a new or young generation; to make it more accessible,” Espina said. “Hopefully, this will spark a fresh wave of appreciation for Patis Tesoro as well as the techniques and traditions that make Philippine fashion special.”
Heirloom will be exclusively available at the ArteFino Fair happening from July 31 to August 3 at the Fifth at Rockwell. For more information, follow Jor-El Espina on Instagram @jorel_espinaph.
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