Considering the P4.6-million timepiece’s intricacies, LV limited its production for true luxury enthusiasts.
There are many things that made Louis Vuitton the most valued high-end brand in the world. Its Steamer trunks, Speedy handbags, monogram shirts, and LV Trainer sneakers are just a few. Now, Louis Vuitton also wants to join the high-end watchmaking league.
On Dec. 13, Louis Vuitton released its opulent Escale Platinum watch with Métiers D’Art dial. Like the Escale line’s first set of time-only watches released in November, the limited edition Escale Platinum proves the fashion powerhouse to be a competent contender in fine watchmaking.
This elegant model is positioned as a unisex watch with a platinum case spanning 39mm in diameter and 10mm in thickness. Inspired by Louis Vuitton’s iconic trunks, the lugs are designed similarly to riveted brass brackets that protect the corners of Steamer trunks. The same design concept is reflected in the hour markers on the dial.
The case features refined finishes such as the circular satin-brushed case middle, wide polished bezel, and polished trunk-style brackets. The back is meanwhile made out of sapphire crystal and offers a glimpse into the watch’s LFT023 automatic caliber. Developed in collaboration with Swiss watchmaker Le Cercle des Horlogers, the Geneva Observatory-certified mechanism features a 22-karat rose gold micro-rotor with the LV monogram and a power reserve of 50 hours.
What ultimately sets the Escale Platinum apart from previous models is its new dial, which was crafted using Métíers D’Art skills, particularly guilloche engraving and grand feu enamel techniques. Guilloche is an engraving technique that dates back to the 16th century, wherein delicate striations are carved on the surface of precious metals to create subtle plays of light. Meanwhile, the grand feu enamel technique, which originated in the 17th century, uses fire to fuse layers of enamel powder to a metal base to create a colored, glassy surface.
For the Louis Vuitton Escale Platinum wristwatch, the intricate process began with the milling and engraving of a solid gold disc to create intricate radial patterns in a mystic blue color. The 18-karat white gold dial is then adorned with enamel on the front and back to achieve a lustrous, translucent finish and prevent deformation during firing.
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The result of the elaborate process is a dial with a luxurious one-of-a-kind design comprising intricate, repetitive patterns and a radiant, smooth finish. Completing the exquisite watch face are a lance-shaped hour and minute hands and a lightweight titanium seconds hand. It is paired with a calfskin leather strap with a platinum pin buckle.
Considering the Escale Platinum’s complexity, it comes as no wonder that Louis Vuitton limited its production to only 50 pieces. To remind the wearer of the watch’s exclusivity, each piece comes with a discreet rose gold plaque that bears the individual serial number of every watch.
Its release comes over a year since Jean Arnault, Louis Vuitton director of Watches, introduced a new strategy for the fashion label’s watch division. This new strategy centers on utilizing technical skills, modern design, and traditional techniques in positioning Louis Vuitton as a leader in the luxury watch industry. Gone are the days when the fashion label would use LV-clad, fashion-oriented models to promote its exquisite timepieces. Arnault told Monochrome Watches that he sees the future of Louis Vuitton watches to be far more serious.
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Arnault’s commitment to his vision was first seen in the Tambour Twenty, a limited edition watch that celebrates the 20th anniversary of Louis Vuitton’s iconic Tambour watch. Launched in September 2022, the Tambour Twenty redesigned the brand’s iconic smartwatch into a classic sophisticated timepiece, with its slimmer profile, steel case, and Louis Vuitton’s first three-hand motor LFT023.
A year later, in September 2023, the Maison unveiled a new Tambour collection which, unlike previous models, came with a slimmer case, sophisticated dial, and a built-in bracelet. This was followed by the relaunch of the Escale which, for the past 10 years, has been known as a world-timer model with complex flag-inspired details. For the first time in the watch’s history, the Escale was crafted as a minimalist time-only dress watch, further reflecting Louis Vuitton’s mission to redefine the future of luxury fashion watches.
The Louis Vuitton Escale Platinum retails for €75,000 (P4.6 million) and can only be purchased directly through the Maison.
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