Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons shift the tone at Milan Fashion Week.
Prada’s Spring/Summer 2026 menswear show didn’t come with a set or any big theme. The show, held at Fondazione Prada’s Deposito in Milan, revealed a bare set, concrete floors, visible beams, and large windows letting in natural light. Flower-shaped carpets were the only decoration and the guests heard ambient music, birds, street noise, and cowbells instead.
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The first look is a crisp white shirt, slightly tucked, paired with high-cut shorts that look somewhere between underwear and swim trunks. It was a bit awkward, almost boyish, but held together. That same tension carried through the rest of the collection. Coats were worn open, sweaters were shrunken, and some shirts dropped below the knee like tunics and pants showed up sometimes.
What grounded everything was the styling. There were tall black socks worn with boat shoes or moccasins, backpacks carried by hand, and hats that looked like upside-down flower pots made of raffia. Some pieces leaned athletic like retro tracksuits, cropped trousers with side stripes and others borrowed from office wear but a little softer. Even the suits had some looseness to them, with pushed-up sleeves and layers that made them feel less formal.
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The colors aren’t loud either. Navy, black, red, and khaki also made space for lavender, pale pink, and sky blue. The combinations didn’t feel trendy or styled but for some reason, they seemed to work.
The space was left raw. The set, or lack thereof, matched the collection’s intention. After the show, Prada explained the shift in tone: “We tried to make a change of tone, from powerful to gentle, calm. Basically, the opposite of aggression, power, nastiness.” Simons added, “Sometimes it is good to reflect, and be a bit more calm.” Later, he said, “We wanted everything to be human in its dimension, to be light and fresh and colorful.”
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Watch the entire show below:
All photos courtesy of Prada
