Simone Rocha brings the awkward journey of adolescence to LFW

The S/S26 show featured the debut of ballerina Crocs and Rocha’s romantic collection.

The presentation was held inside Mansion House, the grand 18th-century residence of the Lord Mayor of London. Rocha sent out a collection that looked at the in-between space of growing up, the awkward but tender shift from childhood into adolescence. “A playful provocative stance” and “an awkward moment,” she described the collection in the show notes.

Her references came from Justine Kurland’s photo book Girl Pictures, and Maureen Freely’s essay My Dress Rehearsal: or How Mrs. Clarke Taught Me How to Sew, which appears in Nancy Honey’s photo book Entering the Masquerade: Girls from Eleven to Fourteen. Honey’s book captures the awkward yet formative stage of girlhood, documenting the rituals, pressures, and self-consciousness that surface between childhood and adolescence. Both works reflect the uneasy self-awareness of teenage years.

*Photos from Simone Rocha’s official Instagram account*

The opening look paired a layered organza skirt and slipping sequin bralette, accessorized with a tiara and a necklace that felt slightly out of place, like playing dress-up in front of a mirror. Models clutched satin pillows disguised as handbags as if being on a stage of teenage nerves.

Then, it seemed like the “girl” was starting to grow in confidence as reflected in the next looks that appeared: a chartreuse dress with padded hips, shimmering sequin gowns, floral dresses, quilted pink sets, and satin gowns printed with poppies that carried a romantic touch. Some looks even featured real lilies and pressed flowers, which also signifies blooming and growth.

Menswear included suits and coats in sheer organza and plastic, some decorated with real lilies or pressed flowers. A black suit with a bouquet sash stood out, echoing the idea of an uneasy transition into adolescence.

The highlight was Rocha’s new Crocs collaboration, with the Ballerina Platform Mary Jane decorated with pearls and crystals, plus updated versions of the Classic Platform clog and Trailbreak sneaker.

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The show ended with Doris Day’s Que Sera, Sera, a song about the uncertainty of the future and the innocence of asking what lies ahead. It was a fitting reminder that growing up rarely offers neat answers.

See more of the collection below: