From Napaling’s wild sardine run in summer to the stillness of rain-soaked mornings, Amorita reminds you that beauty shifts with the seasons—and both are worth chasing.
Of the many amazing things about marine life in the Philippines, there are two stories of evolution and survival that we are lucky to witness in our seas. The first is the whale shark—massive, powerful yet marked with delicate white spots that mirror sunlight filtering through the waves. They’re proof of evolutionary adaptation, if there ever was any—a natural camouflage that helps young whale sharks hide from predators, including humans.
The first time I heard this of this phenomenon, I was floored. In my mind, I saw the ocean dreaming in light, and a gentle giant’s tiny spots shimmering beneath the surface.
The second story is on the smaller end of the scale: the sardine. Because of their size, a single sardine is easy for a larger fish like tuna to eat, so the sardines converged and said: “Nah, try again, buddy!”
So they learned to form a “bait ball”—that stunning ball of hundreds of thousands of fish swimming in a dense, coordinated circle, appearing larger and more intimidating to make it harder for predators to single out one. Also called a sardine run, it’s a dazzling sight that no words can really describe.
A hop and a skip to Napaling
I witnessed my first sardine run in Bohol a few months ago—on a glorious, sunny afternoon arranged by Amorita Resort on Panglao island. I had seen thousands of jackfish in the house reef of an El Nido resort years ago—but sardines were something entirely different. Because they are smaller, the bait ball seemed bigger, more impressive.
On separate trips to Bohol, I’ve climbed the Chocolate Hills, snorkeled around Balicasag Island, glided along the country’s most beautiful river (Loboc River), hushed my way around tarsiers in the sanctuary, and seen butterflies and fireflies with excellent guides. And always, when the tour takes the whole day or afternoon, Amorita packs lunch for its guests—hearty sandwiches and cold drinks from the hotel’s Saffron restaurant.
Napaling, however, is just 15 minutes away from the resort. We left around breakfast and were back for lunch—our faces red from the sun and sea. Napaling Reef is close to the shore and concrete steps lead to the water. Houses owned by locals flank the path going to the sea, and some of them have water faucets outside that you can use to wash off the seawater from your body. But if you’re staying at Amorita, the stickiness from the saltwater is not an issue because you’ll be back in the resort in no time.
The tour operator provides a guide that swims with you to the site (a good 20 minutes), a life vest and buoy to hold on to. Though the corals are less dense than in Balicasag, they’re a remarkable, beautiful sight that the swim takes longer.
When we reached the site, we were greeted by massive schools of sardines moving in unison. It was an amazing sight. I could have stayed in the water for hours just watching the sardines. You think, surely, they take a break this formation. They don’t—but they do move their position.
I was told that the sardines stay in this reef all year round—unlike in other places where they’re visible only in the summer. Still, it’s best to go from November to May, when the water is very clear.
After Napaling, I never saw sardines the same way again. These little, intelligent fish had the audacity to be better than humans—by realizing that unity is what keeps them alive.
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Sometimes it rains
Amorita in the rain is a different kind of beautiful—quiet, slow, contemplative. The sea hides its blue, the sunset show is barely discernible, and the sound of rain falling on the leaves of trees and plants becomes a lullaby. You wouldn’t want to leave your room or your villa especially.
Rainy season in Amorita invites you to pause, to meditate, hike when it’s not too wet…and to eat a lot. On a more recent wellness trip, that’s what we did—well, the eating part at least.
Our first lunch was a Boholano feast at Saffron restaurant, which started with tuna kinilaw, green salad, and lato or seagrapes that burst in your mouth like little balloons. These were followed by kansi, grilled liempo, adobo, grilled tuna, native fried chicken, and ice cream with latik. All the produce and meats were sourced from the province—making you think that Boholanos must be walking up and down those Chocolate Hills every day because you cannot stay slim with this food!
Dinner was at the Spanish restaurant Tomar. I really enjoyed the tapas and pintxos here (the former originating from Andalusia in the south and the latter from the Basque country in the north). What I love about such a dinner is that the small plates keep the conversation and the sangria flowing.
Between the croquettes (my favorite), the gambas al ajilo with soft bread, jamon Iberico, and pulpo on a bed of mashed potatoes and shoestring fries, the hours flew. And when we thought the meal was winding down, there were still two kinds of paellas to be had and, for dessert, platters of cheeses nuts and green grapes.
Dinner the next night was just as diet-busting. And totally worth it at The Lost Cow Chophouse. All manner of steaks and sausages were served with the Tomahawk as the star, with side dishes such as baked potato with sour cream (another favorite).
If you’re a diehard carnivore, the sizzling Tomahawk alone will make your inner caveman weep with joy as it’s wheeled to your tableside and cut before your eyes.
The luxury of the unhurried
From June to September, Amorita’s lush gardens become so green and the smell of nature hangs in the air. Rainy days mean long, unhurried breakfasts, curling cup in a comfy bed with a book, swimming in your villa’s private pool, and long conversations over cocktails.
Water activities are expectedly unpredictable—and it’s the Coast Guard that gives the go-signal for Panglao island. On days when it’s just an intermittent drizzle, you can still do wellness activities that range from yoga at the resort’s cliff deck overlooking Alona Beach, guided meditation, nature walks, and exploring the secret cove just below the cliff where the resort sits.
Or you can opt for a massage at SeaTree Spa, followed by a paint-and-sip session on the cliff deck. Our afternoon lesson on our second day was all about watercolors—an exercise made more enjoyable with wine. We painted the beach below and the sea beyond.
As we finished, it began to rain. Walking back to my villa, everything around me was calm and quietly beautiful. Amorita reminded me that in Bohol, as in life, beauty shifts with the seasons—and both sunshine and rain are worth chasing.
Amorita Resort is set to expand with the opening of a new luxury resort by the end of 2025 in Puerto Princesa, Palawan. Visit Amorita Resort’s website; follow their official Instagram and Facebook pages. Call their Manila sales office at 8931 9999 or email inquiries@amoritaresort.com.
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