The newest spot in town is authentically, traditionally Japanese—and you need to try these expat favorites.
Everyone in Metro Manila knows that amid the glut of commercialized and Filipinized Japanese restaurants, you go to one enclave if you want legit and authentic cuisine: Little Tokyo in Makati, which stands under the shadow of Makati Cinema Square. The only stamp of approval Little Tokyo needs is the constant stream of Japanese expats frequenting the area, as well as those who actually own the establishments.
This is why it was a surprise—a pleasant one, at that—that something as authentically straight from Japan as IKOKA Yakitori popped up in BGC. Located at Two Maridien building near Bonifacio High Street and the Maybank Theater, IKOKA isn’t just real Japanese yakitori brought over from Osaka by chef Masashi Hara; but for five years in a row it’s also been recognized by the Michelin Bib Gourmand, which is given to simple, high-quality eats around the world. The Philippines, with its taste for Japanese cuisine, was a natural target for the yakitori’s international expansion.
There is only one IKOKA way to grill yakitori: the meat is cooked over premium Binchotan charcoal, a type of high-quality charcoal used since the days of the Edo period in the 17th century. Binchotan charcoal is made from ubame oak, mainly found in the Wakayama Prefecture in southwestern Japan, and it’s harder than your typical black charcoal. The meat on the skewers is then seasoned with salt or the restaurant’s signature tare sauce.
“Yakitori is more than food—it is culture, tradition, and craftsmanship,” says chef Masashi Hara. “We are proud to bring the same Michelin-recognized quality to the Philippines, where our chefs are trained to deliver the same authentic flavors as in Japan.”
If that’s got your gears turning and your mouth salivating, we tried everything IKOKA has to offer, and here are the five favorites:
1. Negima (chicken thigh and scallion)
When you think of yakitori, you’re likely thinking of chicken thigh. What most would consider the most “basic” is still a tried and true favorite, the bread and butter of yakitori, if you will. IKOKA labels this as a bestseller for that reason alone. Nothing fancy, just filling.
2. Tomato maki (cherry tomatoes wrapped in pork)
A personal favorite as a grilled tomato fan—the tomatoes are soft and juicy, bursting with every bite in the center of tender pork. Definitely worth adding to your lot when you order, as you might get addicted to popping the tomatoes in your mouth.
3. Butabara (pork belly)
An easy Filipino favorite, considering we do love our pork belly. Like the chicken thigh, it’s incredibly tough to dislike a well-done pork belly skewer. This will likely keep you coming back for more, especially if you prefer your meat skewers simple and filling.
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4. Cheese tsukune (chicken meatball and cheese)
To me, this is admittedly one of the stranger things on the IKOKA menu—even more different than foods like liver and gizzard—as you don’t really get to eat ground chicken meatball with cheese every day. The melted cheese that comes with it is delightful and indulgent, though, and is definitely worth trying.
5. Kawa (chicken skin)
Who doesn’t like crispy chicken skin? Popular across pretty much all cultures, chicken skin is a must-have for a restaurant that makes the most of every part of the animal. That’s why it’s an easy bestseller for IKOKA.
BONUS: Tebasaki (chicken wing)
One probably doesn’t go to a yakitori place to go have chicken wings—that’s what wing restaurants are for. But the tebasaki is understated and easy to eat, giving that familiar texture and feel that makes chicken wings popular with a lot of people in a flavor that tastes authentically Japanese with the tare sauce.
And if it all sounds overwhelming? If you’re not a frequent yakitori eater or you’re feeling adventurous, we’re told that IKOKA prides itself on its omakase offering, where anyone can walk in and have the chefs completely decide what to serve you. No two omakase experiences are the same day-to-day, and it’s perfect for those who get a hit of dopamine from doing something new and different.
All in all, while there’s admittedly a deep selection of Japanese restaurants to choose from around Manila and yakitori isn’t usually the top-of-mind go-to whenever somebody mentions Japanese food, IKOKA is definitely worth seeking out in BGC. That the Japanese expats deem it worthy of their lunch hour makes it worth checking out—it might even be an after-work favorite for meats and beers.
IKOKA Yakitori is located on the ground floor of Two Maridien building, Taguig.
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