The call of the commercial kitchen proves to be irresistible to the Bulakeño, who demonstrates that, despite the long break, his culinary instincts remain as sharp as ever.
If you came here looking for some juicy goss on why chef Kevin Villarica left multi-awarded Filipino restaurant Hapag years ago, you will be grossly disappointed. We were at his recently opened Makati steakhouse Le Feu, located just outside the main gate of San Lorenzo Village where Gen-Xers might recall was the former location of popular 80s night spot Mars Disco.
That evening, Villarica was belatedly celebrating his birthday with a long table of family and friends, and both Hapag chefs Thirdy Dolatre and Kevin Navoa were among the invitees. They had to decline, though, considering that it was a Friday night and any chef would know (and understand) that the duo could not leave their command center during what is often the busiest day of the week for restaurants.
“These are all our friends,” Villarica motions toward the group of La Salle Greenhills alumni gathered on one side of the room. “We were all the same batch in high school.”
Unconvinced at the wholesome response, I just had to ask more directly why he decided to leave Hapag just when they were at the cusp of hitting mainstream success. “I have always had my own businesses and they also deserved my attention and focus,” Villarica admits.
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Add to that was helping run the family’s wholesale jewelry business out of his hometown of Bulacan, plus raising his own growing family— piling more onto his proverbial plate would have been frivolous if not downright irresponsible. Also, he discloses that he is still a quiet partner of Hapag, dispelling any doubt that his departure from daily operations was anything less than amicable.
However, the opportunity to return to the Metro Manila food scene just proved to be difficult to resist especially since it meant working with another longtime friend. Business partner Michael Sarabia’s family owns Hotel Celeste located on the outline of Makati’s CBD, a few steps aways from Ayala Center. Sarabia wanted to transform their banquet hall (which used to be restaurant Ciçou of chef Cyrille Soenen) into a signature restaurant and invited fellow Bulakeño Villarica to partner with him.
Le Feu lifted its own design from the hotel’s modern baroque interiors, giving the intimate space a touch of elegance. Still, it does not distract from the food which is truly the crux of Villarica’s triumphant reemergence.
His food at Le Feu is grandiose as is expected from a steakhouse, but also familiar and comforting as one would anticipate from the designs of a certified family man. This could have easily been polarizing if not for Villarica’s exceptional kitchen skills that tie this all perfectly together. There are exceptional creamy soups such as a particularly memorable shrimp bisque, as well as a well-constructed Caesar salad that in turn inspired an innovative take on a steak tartare.
Just like many of us who grew up on the late culinary icon Margarita Forés’ casual Italian fare, Villarica was also deeply affected by her sudden passing, which moved him to put a couple of dishes on the menu inspired by her— his creamy take on a spinach dip and a fusilli pasta with truffle cream.
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Still, Le Feu’s strongest suit is their steak, and our Ranger Valley black Angus tomahawk was a veritable masterpiece. One can opt for simply seasoned or adorned with chimichurri, but the kitchen will send it out medium rare as it rightfully should be. Side dishes are quite abundant, with a handful of rice choices and some classic steakhouse sides like French fries and creamed spinach. But, in keeping with the French theme of its location, one cannot go wrong with Villarica’s aligot— a regional French dish of potato puree and melted cheese— which is perfectly seasoned and unapologetically rich.
To finish off a luxurious meal, one can opt to go all-in with a Snickers-inspired chocolate cake, or maybe end with something more delicate like the poached pear cooked slowly and gently in red wine and rose water.
Those looking for drama will surely need to go searching for it elsewhere. Le Feu— simply and undeniably— is one of the best homegrown steakhouses in the metro, a worthy contender for most promising newcomer in a highly saturated market full of global franchises and tried-and-tested names. Villarica brings with him a quiet confidence that breathes new life into an old concept, turning it into something that is uniquely his own. Steak lovers— or simply lovers of food— must come, and spread the good news that Kevin Villarica has returned.
