With its elegant interiors and vaunted French-Italian menu, dining at Lusso is an experience to remember.
In the Philippines, Italian cuisine has somewhat become synonymous with celebrated chef Margarita Forés. Considered one of Asia’s best chefs, Forés has never shied away from expressing her affinity for Italy’s storied gastronomic heritage, with this passion shown in the loveliest—and most sumptuous—way through her well-loved restaurants Cibo and Lusso.
Last month, Forés opened her restaurant Lusso at The Podium in Ortigas Center. Lusso is known for its old world European charm blended with Filipino hospitality, and northerners such as myself now don’t have to venture out to Makati for a taste of the restaurant’s popular French-Italian menu.
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From Manila to Milan and back again
“I’m thrilled that Lusso at The Podium embodies my truest intention for the brand,” shares Forés. “This new location signifies a clear evolution from the original Lusso in Greenbelt. I love that we are bringing Lusso to another part of the city. With a beautiful two-floor corner space and a much larger kitchen, I’m confident we’ll not only welcome new diners but also breathe fresh life into the brand as a whole,” she adds.
“I want guests to feel transported. I want this to be a short trip to Milano for them,” Forés enthuses. “Lusso at The Podium best captures an old-world elegance, offering a distinctive and refined experience amid the hustle and bustle of the mall.”
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True enough, a step inside Lusso The Podium is like stepping into a grand palazzo or maybe even a room at the Château de Versailles. The interiors look no different from a jewelry box—gilded, shiny, stately. The two-level restaurant’s centerpiece is an elegant staircase that’s punctuated by a massive textured glass chandelier which Forés herself bought in Milan.
Despite its posh aesthetics, the space feels inviting and not intimidating, in keeping with Forés’ vision of blending European elegance with Filipino hospitality.
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Two regrets, two new fans
For years, Lusso has built a loyal following for its distinctive take on all-day dining, pairing comfort food with champagne and caviar. Despite being a fan of Cibo since my high school days in the late nineties, I haven’t had the chance to sample Lusso just yet—that is until I was invited to a media preview of its Podium branch early this month.
With my son Nico as my plus one, we eagerly made our way from Quezon City to Ortigas, browsing the menu and deciding which to order en route. Upon arrival (and after admiring the space), we were escorted to the second floor, with our server Fina waiting upon us with a broad smile. Despite already having an idea of which dishes to order, we chose to go with her recommendations.
We started things off with the Barquillos Cylinders with Chive Mousse Duetto, Salmon Roe, and Prosciutto. This, my dear readers, was sensational. I’ve never had anything quite like it. It was an explosion of flavors and textures—savory, almost nutty; silky but also crunchy because of the barquillos; unbelievably umami but not overwhelming. Very highly recommended. We still regret not ordering a second round—our first of two regrets that evening.
Fina suggested we also order the Burrata Pugliese, Rucola, and Pomodoro, with the burrata arriving straight from Italy a few hours earlier. It was, as expected, a delightful ball of the freshest burrata imaginable. The rucola (arugula) and the pomodoro (tomato) were just as fresh. The tomato, in particular, was a gift from the gods. Unbelievably sweet and juicy, it might as well be the best tomato I’ve ever tasted.
We ordered two kinds of soup, split in half for us to share. The first one, Lobster Bisque, a soup made of spinach crab ravioli, is rich, flavorful, with a faint but satisfying taste of the ocean. The other, Cream of Cepés, a Parmigiano-Reggiano flan, was a nice follow-up with its earthy tones.
No Margarita Forés feast is complete without pasta. We went for two kinds, the first being the more straightforward Spaghettini alla Checca, which is spaghettini tossed in extra virgin olive oil, garlic, cherry tomatoes, and buffalo cheese. It couldn’t be simpler and more comforting than this, just the way I prefer my pasta dish to be. This is a great pair for any protein, be it fish, poultry, or steak.
Our second choice of pasta was a bit more complex—Spinach Taglierini, which is fresh taglierini made with spinach tossed in a rich sauce of asiago cheese, mushrooms, and parma ham. This dish was so indulgent, I saw Nico closing his eyes with every bite.
For our first main course, Fina suggested the Dry-Aged Rib-eye, but we went against her recommendation this one time, worried that we won’t be able to finish the whole dish. We instead opted for her other reco, Grilled Entrecote (300 g), which is US Prime striploin served with béarnaise fries (with the option of French butter rice). As expected from a Forés establishment, the steak was grilled to perfection—succulent, tender, flavorful, with just the right char and strip of fat.
My son and I are proud carnivores, so our second main course was also meat-based (I snorted while typing this sentence). Nico gave in to the prospect of a proper Shepherd’s Pie, which he has always wanted to have after sampling a few disappointing ones in the past. Lusso’s version features an indulgent, melt-in-your-mouth lamb braised in prunes and a delectable truffle potato puree. By this time we were already so full, we had about half of the order to go. We had it for lunch the following day, and lo and behold! The lamb was even more flavorsome!
Our second regret of the night? Despite being a carnivorous pair, we lamented not ordering a fish or seafood dish. We just thought of it as more reason to come back. I have my eyes set on trying out Lusso’s Pan-Seared Salmon with Orange Salt, River Prawn Thermidor, and Fina’s highly recommended Live Lobster Linguine.
Dessert is always a must for those of us afflicted with a nasty case of the sweet tooth. We helped ourselves to two kinds of cakes, with the first a show stopping Pecorino Cheesecake. Cheesecakes are among my life’s greatest joys, and Lusso’s did not disappoint. The cheesecake was luscious, equal parts sweet and tangy, with the candied fruits on top adding a citrusy kick.
To cap off our delightful dinner, we had a glorious slice of the queen of Italian desserts—tiramisu. Lusso’s take on this much loved cake, Tiramisù Croccante, stays faithful to its name which literally means “pick me up.” A bite into this reimagining of a classic, with the added crunch from caramelized nuts and sugar and a generous sprinkling of white chocolate shavings, most definitely picked our spirits up. We paired this slice of heaven with a cup of Café au Lait and our evening was nothing short of perfetto.
Looks like Lusso has gained two new adoring fans! We’ll be back soonest!
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