The Underbelly and Birdjovi are bringing together two Japanese favorites on September 21 and 22.
What do you get when ramen’s soulful comfort meets yakitori’s smoky flavors? For two nights in Makati, on September 21 and 22, diners will find out at The Underbird, a collaboration between The Underbelly and Birdjovi.
The crossover pairs The Underbelly, a ramen-focused spot known for its hearty, subversive bowls, with Birdjovi, the soon-to-open yakitori house in Makati led by Japanese grill master Chef Takuto Kato.
I arrived at The Underbelly early in the evening or a tasting dinner and was greeted by its stylish, cozy interior. The smell of smoke hit me first—sweet, savory, irresistible. Outside, guest chef Takuto Kato, or Kato-san, was already manning the charcoal grill with quiet intensity, skewers sizzling as smoke curled upward, teasing appetites before the first bite.
It was my first visit to The Underbelly, and I was struck by how approachable the space felt. There was an air of casual sophisticated without being intimidating, the kind of place where you could just settle in and feel at ease.
Not long after I found a corner seat (and resisted the urge to hover near the grill like a hungry moth), the opening bite arrived: Chicken and Egg Karaage, a familiar dish from The Underbelly’s regular menu. The crispy chicken came topped with grated cured yolk, layering a lingering umami richness over the tangy, garlicky aioli. A simple yet confident start.
First sips, first surprises
The collaboration menu promised three yakitori, a limited-edition paitan ramen, and a seasonal sake. But first came the sake: Hakkaisan Shiboritate Genshu Namasake Echigo De Sourou—a mouthful name and, as I learned later, a rare winter brew seldom exported outside Japan.
As much of a Japan nerd as I am, it was surprisingly my first real sake. I clinked glasses with the other guests at my table for my first genuine kampai! The sake was crisp and strong at first sip before smoothing into a clean, fruity aftertaste. Rare and fleeting, it felt like the perfect prelude.
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Skewers, smoke, savory surprises
The yakitori arrived one by one, each with its own character. First was Seseri, made from Nichinan Dori chicken neck. Silky and tender with just the right chew, its juices carried a delicate richness cut neatly by pickled radish on top. Kato-san explained that while local chicken necks are too small, the Japanese-raised Nichinan Dori—raised for over 120 days—yielded just enough for this prized skewer.
Next was Kurumi Negima, skewered chicken thigh and skin. Juicy, smoky, and threaded with charred sweetness, it balanced beautifully with the fresh crunch of leeks. This one used local chicken, with Kato-san working closely with farmers to achieve his desired quality.
The final skewer, Bonjiri, came from chicken tail. Smokier, fattier, and firmer in bite, it reminded me most of Pinoy barbecue—comforting and familiar, though richer and more indulgent. By the end, I felt fuller than expected, proof of its lingering richness.
Then came the star: Yuzu Tori Paitan, crafted by The Underbelly Chefs Noel Mauricio and Jackson Chua, and crowned with Ami Tsukune—a chicken meatball wrapped in pork silk fat and grilled by Kato-san. The broth gave off the rich, milky aroma of paitan, but its sharp yuzu tang was unexpected at first sip. The tsukune’s concentrated umami and grilled depth softened the citrus, turning the bowl into a conversation between comfort and surprise.
What made the broth special, the chefs explained, was its careful balance: native chicken for depth of flavor, commercial chicken for richness. “The commercial chicken is fattier, richer, while the native has more flavor—like tinola,” they shared. Yuzu cut through the richness, while pink peppercorns and purple basil layered in floral notes. It was the kind of ramen that kept unfolding new details until the last sip.
The Underbird story
That spirit of balance and surprise is at the heart of The Underbird’s story. The idea sparked months earlier, when Chef Dan Matutina, co-founder of The Underbelly, visited Suijin, Kato-san’s hidden yakitori spot in Carmona. Impressed by Kato-san’s precision and depth of flavor, Matutina extended an invitation: bring that fire to Makati.
The result is The Underbird—not just a preview of Birdjovi, but a celebration of Japanese comfort food, reimagined through collaboration.
The Underbird collab runs on September 21 and 22 at The Underbelly in The Alley at Karrivin Plaza.
