A pro explains how K-makeup should really be applied.
Let’s face it, the buzz around Korean skincare isn’t slowing down anytime soon. From milky rice toners and soothing centella creams to brightening toner pads, our beauty shelves have seen a serious upgrade.
But there’s another side of beauty that deserves just as much attention: Korean makeup. Rooted in a skin-first philosophy, it offers a refreshing contrast to the pigment-heavy, full-coverage formulas we often see in Western formulations. Think soft-focus finishes, lightweight layers, and a glow that looks like it came from within.
But, as the global beauty industry has taken significant strides towards inclusivity, South Korea has also recognized the importance of catering to a wider range of skin tones. As the demand for diverse beauty options grows, Korean makeup brands continue to embrace the beauty of deeper skin tones.
“Jung Saem Mool is my go-to Korean brand not only because the brand’s created by a makeup artist but because their products work well,” Chuchie Ledesma, a pro makeup artist and graduate of the Jung Saemmool Art & Academy in Seoul,says. “They have also released an extended shade range for their cushion foundations. TirTir also has cushion shades for deeper skintones. I love FWEE for their lip color shade range. For local brands, I love BLK because of the skin-like finish their foundation gives.”
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Before diving into makeup application, it’s crucial to understand your skin tone and undertones, and identifying yours will help you choose the right products and technique. According to Chuchie, not everything translates well across different complexions.
“The biggest changes I make are with the base products (foundation, concealer, and powder) since shade matching and finding the right undertones are key for deeper skin. K-style makeup tends to rely on tone-up creams for an overall brightening effect, but I avoid applying those all over the face because they can make deeper skin look ashy or flat. Deeper skin tones can look radiant without using tone-up creams.”
Some common mistakes include using products with too much white or gray pigment, which can create an ashy look, and not considering undertones when selecting foundation or concealer. “ I really wish more people would try the art of patiently and strategically layering (skincare and base) products. That’s the secret behind that effortless, skin-like finish you always see in Korean makeup looks.”
Chuchie explains further, “A lot of us are used to applying foundation, concealer, and powders in heavier layers all at once, then we struggle to blend it all out later. Sometimes we are also depending on setting sprays a little too much to fix everything in place. But with K-style makeup, the approach is much softer and more gradual. You apply thin layers of product, build coverage only where it’s needed, and let each layer settle before adding more. This technique not only creates a more natural and radiant look most especially on deeper skin tones, but it also prevents that heavy, cakey feeling. Because you’re using less product overall, the makeup tends to last longer and wear better throughout the day. It’s all about patience and precision, but the payoff (skin that still looks like skin) is so worth it.”
The Korean makeup look appears effortless, but it’s actually a meticulous balance of technique and tone. With the right products and a solid grasp of the routine, you can recreate the look flawlessly–every single time.
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