Veronica Leoni described the season as “hedonistic elegance.”
It has been one year since Veronica Leoni brought Calvin Klein Collection back to the runway after a six-year break. The Italian designer, who previously worked at The Row, Jil Sander, Céline under Phoebe Philo, and Moncler, was appointed in 2024 to rebuild the brand’s highest-end line following Raf Simons’ departure in 2018.
For Fall 2026 at New York Fashion Week, she presented her third collection, which she described as “hedonistic elegance.” In simple terms, it was about clean design with a stronger focus on the body.
Related story: Calvin Klein sharpens minimalism with a playful twist for S/S 2026
Related story: Lily Collins stars in new Calvin Klein campaign
A show that reflects where the brand stands
The runway took place inside The McCourt at The Shed in Hudson Yards. Red folding chairs were arranged in a circle, creating a more intimate space within the large venue.
Calvin Klein Collection is different from the rest of the Calvin Klein brand. It is the highest tier of the company, focused on luxury, runway-level fashion with designer pricing. These pieces are produced in smaller quantities and sold through select global retailers as well as through the brand’s own e-commerce. They are not widely available in the same way as Calvin Klein Jeans, underwear, or fragrances.
The broader Calvin Klein business includes denim, logo underwear, basics, and perfumes that reach a much larger global audience. Those lines are distributed widely through department stores, malls, and flagship shops. Calvin Klein Collection, by contrast, represents the creative and design-led peak of the brand.
Going back to the brand’s early years
Instead of focusing on the 1990s image of Calvin Klein, Leoni looked further back to the late 1970s and early 1980s. Her research included old campaign images and runway pieces from that time.
“I wanted to start the season fighting the stereotypical perception we all have about Calvin,” she said. “As you start to dig a little bit more into the foundation of the brand, the roots of the brand, you discover this wonderful, amazing world.”
One of the key pieces was a recreation of a 1976 jean, the first ever shown on a Calvin Klein runway. It featured a leather patch and a cursive logo. This was the first time denim appeared at the Collection level.
“We’re almost to the 50th anniversary, so we wanted to re-edit the shape and reintroduce the logo,” Leoni explained. “This was before Brooke Shields and before Calvin Klein Jeans was everywhere.” Denim is central to the brand’s identity, and bringing it to the runway bridges the past and current..
Clean tailoring and a focus on the body
Two main ideas stood out: sharp minimalism and an emphasis on the body.
“I wanted to train to this kind of beauty — this perfection and practice of elegance that he was doing so well at the time,” Leoni said. “It still looks so relevant today.”
The tailoring was long and slim. Some jackets were open at the back, showing logo bras underneath. Dresses looked modest from the front but had slightly sheer backs. Sleeveless power suits and rolled-up wool T-shirts highlighted the arms.
There was also a clear sense of confidence in how the clothes framed the body. Leoni described it as a strong sense of hedonism. The idea was about celebrating shape and form.
For those who prefer less skin, the collection also offered structured suits, leather bombers, sculptural coats with shearling collars, and satin dresses. The color palette stayed mostly neutral, with black, white, gray, and brown, plus touches of burgundy and orange.
Brooke Shields attended the show, along with campaign stars including Blackpink’s Jennie, Dakota Johnson, Grace Van Patten, and Jackson White. Their presence highlighted the link between Calvin Klein’s history and its current audience.
By revisiting the brand’s early years and refining her ideas, Leoni presented a clearer vision of what Calvin Klein Collection can be today. And that is minimal, controlled, centered on the body, and still, of course, relevant, especially to the brand’s growing younger audience.
Watch the full show below:
Related story: Calvin Klein returns to the runway with a new take on minimalism
Related story: How Jeremy Allen White’s sartorial flair fits Calvin Klein’s minimalist, sensual aesthetic
