Wes Gordon showcased the art and beauty of Spanish culture, from the collection’s vibrant floral motifs to the venue itself and his collaborations with five iconic Spanish creatives.
Carolina Herrera has been a long-anticipated name at New York Fashion Week, with its timeless and versatile designs that incorporate vibrant colors, beautiful prints, and empowering shapes. This year, the brand celebrated for its legacy of elegance has shaken things up by escaping the city for an artful spectacle in Madrid.
“We’ve done Rio and Mexico City [for resort], but it’s the first time in the history of the house that we have not shown at New York Fashion Week for a main season,” creative director Wes Gordon told ELLE. The quintessentially New York brand instead unveiled its spring 2026 collection at Madrid Fashion Week, making this the first time the label showcased its main line outside of its hometown and its third runway presentation overseas since its founding in 1981.
The shift made total sense as Carolina Herrera has deep Latin roots. The distinguished designer hails from Venezuela and her label’s parent company, Puig, was founded and is still headquartered in Barcelona, Spain. “We’re a very proudly Latin heritage house,” Gordon continued. “Mrs. Herrera is Venezuelan, our parent company is Spanish. So, Rio, Mexico City, and Madrid—these are the places that are important to us as a brand.”
Madrid not only served as the scenic backdrop to the label’s Sept. 18 show but also the inspiration for the entire collection. He specifically cited Madrid in the 16th and 17th centuries, as well as “La Movida,” the vibrant countercultural movement in the ‘80s that championed freedom, creativity, and hedonism following General Francisco Franco’s oppressive regime.
“The beautiful thing about doing a destination show like this is that I know from the very beginning where it’s going to be—so that’s really my inspiration throughout,” Gordon added.
The American designer, who has been lauded for bringing a revolutionary yet harmonious update to the brand, debuted the Caroline Herrera Spring 2026 collection at the iconic Plaza Mayor at the heart of Madrid. Its stunning 17-century architecture and large bronze statue of King Philip III became the backdrop for his parade of elaborate gowns, flower-embroidered dresses, and polka-dotted suits in front of 1,500 guests from different parts of the world.
Everything at the show spoke of beauty, drama, and glamour. It opened with a grandoise black gown with a long train that swept the crowd away from the get-go. It was followed by 76 looks drenched in color and bold floral motifs, and swayed with the upbeat tunes of ‘80s Spanish pop.
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Infanta dresses are key to the collection, bringing to life the paintings of Velázquez and El Greco, which Gordon also pinned to his mood board for this capsule. “In many ways, I wanted some of these looks to appear as if she walked right out of a painting in the Prado and onto the streets,” the designer remarked.
Outfits reflecting local culture are part of the contemporary mix. There were matador jackets, fan-shaped handbags, and chic black capes Gordon produced in collaboration with local heritage brand Casa Seseña. Still, the main attraction of the show was Gordon’s signature florals. They were interpreted through striking prints, as an abstract in ruffles, and as playful mini adornments.
“Floral is just a huge part of our identity,” Gordon told ELLE, noting that the collection highlights “three distinct flowers”: roses, carnations, and Spanish violas. All three hold a special significance in Spanish culture, according to WWD. The rose honors Madrid’s Rosaleda garden, while caranation is traditionally worn during the feast of San Isidro, the patron saint of Madrid. Violets, meanwhile, are a nod to the violet-flavored candies given to the show’s guests.
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Among the standouts is the striking marigold jacquered dress embellished with gold carnation motif. Then there’s the eye-popping off-the-shoulder ball gown jazzed up with florals in Gordon’s signature lilac and the label’s trademark bright red.
Gordon continued to showcase the art and uniqueness of Spanish culture by collaborating with five iconic Spanish creatives for this collection. Sybilla showed her mastery of the avant-garde through a sophisticated and daring cut-out dress, while Alejandro Gómez Palomo reimagines Carolina Herrera’s signature white shirt with poetic sleeves and ruffled collars. Andrés Gallardo contributed porcelain floral brooches, pendants, and earrings, while crystal brand Levens sculpted organically-shaped glass jewels. The perfectly tailored capes are meanwhile courtesy of Casa Seseña which once dressed Spanish icons including Pablo Picasso, Ernest Hemingway, and King Alfonso XIII.
“Madrid has always been one of my favorite cities in the world, and it is home to incredible creatives,” Gordon said. “If people were coming all the way here, I felt we needed to give them a show.” And evidently, the designer delivered.
