Hermès’ handsome new collection draws inspiration from the jockey’s racetrack combined with the demands of contemporary dressing.
Hermès has been perfecting the art of styling in the equestrian world for nearly two centuries. Yet, the luxury fashion leader continues to showcase its fashion prowess, crafting an array of handsome ensembles inspired by the jockey’s racetrack combined with the demands of contemporary dressing. Its Fall/Winter 2025 exudes strength and warmth, both in spirit and texture, as envisioned by Hermès artistic director Véronique Nichanian.
“I wanted this collection to be strong and energetic,” Nichanian said about the new capsule unveiled at the Paris Fashion Week on Jan. 25. The show was dominated by outerwear ranging from fuzzy teddy mohair coats to velvet varsity jackets and suits, all designed to counter the winter chill with flair.
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Nichanian weaved together technicality and sophistication in utilitarian jackets, bombers, parkas, raincoats, duffel coats, and flying coats. She reimagined the classic trench with shiny vinyl fabric and leather—a nod to the fashion powerhouse’s reputation for producing what many would call the finest leathers in the world.
The designer brought excitement to the conventional business suit, fashioning it into a range of perfect narrow-arrow double-breasted suits. “I think it’s time to bring back the pleasure of wearing a suit, not because you have to, but for the fun of it,” she remarked.
And while coats were paired with chunky sweaters, some with matching snoods, layering was generally less pronounced this season. It was a deliberate move for Nichanian, who wanted to retain the brand’s sleek and streamlined silhouettes. This is evident especially in the gray pinstripe suits that were crafted sans the bulk to echo the designer’s vision of men unobstructed in their race through life.
The collection is the quintessence of timelessness and dynamism, with its color combinations inspired by racing skills. It pivots from pivots from deep brown, black, gray, and navy to flashes of red, yellow, and teal.
Nichanian said that these “deep and strong dark colors” were mixed together “to give energy” in gloomy times. She explained, “I think that in this very deep time, very difficult time, we need to bring some energy again, and some sweetness and happiness in our clothes.” And while a muted, dark color palette often brings a feeling of darkness, it instead adds poetry to the collection’s representation of allure.
Texture played a key role in the collection, with knit sweaters that are paired with leather pants, as well as leather pants that complemented glossy trenches and leather jackets. Patterns are another highlight of the collection, as seen in outerwear, knitwear, and scarves.
Sweaters came with bold chevrons and geometric patterns lifted directly from the striking stripes of racing silks. Among the standouts is a yellow turtleneck jazzed up with a patchwork of triangles, rectangles, and squares, as well as a jacket made from a puzzle of blue, black, and white stripes.
View the rest of the dynamic and timeless Hermès Fall/Winter 2025 menswear collection here.
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