The message? Courage. And the clothes? Big, bold, and ready to take up space.
The designer who once turned grunge into high fashion and made oversized glamour a signature is still doing what he does best: pushing the limits. Last February 3, ahead of the official start of New York Fashion Week, Jacobs unveiled his Spring 2025 collection at the New York Public Library.
The runway as a call to action
Seated in a single row at the grand NYC landmark, guests including Sofia Coppola, Anna Sui, and a well-dressed mix of Real Housewives were greeted by show notes that started with one word: Courage. Jacobs elaborated: “With precious freedom, we dream and imagine without limitation, daring to be vulnerable in the face of criticism and failure.” In a world that feels increasingly restrictive, Jacobs offered an alternative: wear your boldness, make your presence impossible to ignore.
Related story: FENDI by Marc Jacobs hits shelves in Manila
Voluminous, playful, and unapologetic
The first look down the runway set the tone: a wildly exaggerated yellow blouse with ballooned sleeves, paired with an even puffier high-waisted trousers and razor-sharp pointed-toe heels. From there, the volume only increased. Bubble skirts, overblown knits, and dramatically structured jackets reshaped the models into walking works of art. Some silhouettes felt like high-fashion armor, thick-collared jackets and knee-high boots while others evoked a retro, 1950s cartoon fantasy.
But beyond the shapes, Jacobs played with textures and color in a way that made the collection feel like an ode to surrealism. Jewel-toned velvets, oversized bows, and 3D polka dots danced across the garments. Sweater sets and skirt suits, which could have felt traditional, were blown up to comical proportions. Even the accessories followed suit, shoes featured toe boxes that stretched beyond belief, a nod to the absurd.
Related story: What went viral, who wore what, and the fashion moments that defined 2024
Related story: Alessandro Michele’s debut for Valentino is a stunning harmony of fashion, art, and philosophy
Related story: Valentino Couture is a fever dream of excess and beauty
A touch of theater
Pat McGrath’s makeup for the show added a final whimsical element. Models wore circular red polka dots on their cheeks and lips, almost like a child’s drawn-on clown makeup. Hair was kept loose and slightly undone, as if the models had just stepped out of a dream.
Related story: The 2025 Met Gala is all about power dressing, but not in the way you think
In an era where minimalism has reigned supreme, Jacobs dares us to embrace maximalism (similarly to how Valentino emphasized this, at least during the shows under Alessandro Michele’s helm.) not just in fashion, but in the way we live and take up space.
With this collection, Marc Jacobs asks: Why shrink yourself when you can expand? The answer is…You don’t. You go big. You wear the puffed-up sleeves. You step into the exaggerated heels. You take up space with courage. And you never apologize for it.
Watch the full show below:
