The runway show spotlights the American designer’s mastery at elevating the humble office uniform.
Thom Browne has never been one to settle for the ordinary. Through his eponymous label, the American fashion designer continues to challenge the concept of the uniform. In so doing, he blends the traditional with the avant-garde, the timeless with contemporary flair. Outrageous might as well be his favorite word.
This affinity for the unorthodox is conveyed in the most spectacular way in his fall/winter 2025 show, which closed the New York Fashion Week last Tuesday, February 11. In a show that can only be described as a fantastical fairy tale, Browne proved once again how he has mastered the art of the suit.
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The collection was unveiled amid an aviary-themed set, the highlight of which were 2,000 origami birds. Banner photo and photo above from the Associated Press; photos below from Thom Browne
In a dark Manhattan theater space, amid 2,000 origami birds, Thom Browne unveiled his latest collection to the tune of birds chirping and avian-themed poems. Fans of the designer know him to have a penchant for the dramatic, which is evident throughout the production.
Two models-slash “ornithologists” carrying briefcases and clad in gray Thom Browne uniforms opened the show. They settled by a desk, near a pair of caged lovebirds. Per the program notes, the birds long to be free: “How marvelous would it be, to be exactly who we wish to be?”
A nod to the calming hobby that is bird-watching, the brand’s FW 2025 collection, nonetheless, is anything but subdued. In true blue Thom Browne fashion, the runway saw offbeat versions of the impeccable suit for which the brand is known. There were coats and jackets joyfully embellished with birds in the most vibrant and whimsical colors.
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Thom Browne’s F/W 2025 collection proves that the luxury labels is more than just suits—and it has proven its point in the most fun and vibrant way possible. Look at all those ornate bird embellishments!
It’s not just all suits though. There were wildly inventive dresses, petticoats, mini and floor-length shorts, pleated skirts, shrunken argyle knits, and a head-turning voluminous ball skirt. Then there are the desirable handbags, including the adorable Hector bag, inspired by Browne’s beloved dachshund, which is heralded as the most famous dog muse in fashion.
There were 64 looks in all— each one a delight to behold!
What’s a Thom Browne event without some Hollywood A-listers? Oscar nominee Adrien Brody and Vogue editor Anna Wintour sat side-by-side, while married actors Morgan Spector and Rebecca Hall sat together in the front row. Supermodel and actress Cara Delevingne, musician St. Vincent, and actors Cristin Milioti and Alessandro Nivola were also in attendance.
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And as in Thom Browne’s February shows in the past, this one also doubled as a Valentine’s Day “present” for his partner Andrew Bolton, curator at the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Just like any other hopeless romantic, Browne emerged at the end of the show, a bouquet of flowers in hand, and sprinted toward the love of his life who was watching from the front row (but shrouded in darkness). How I wish I could see the look on Bolton’s face—but some things, alas, are better left to the imagination.
Watch the full show here:
