Every single piece in the collection is wearable art and an embodiment of Japan’s spirit.
Transcendent and contemplative. These two words best describe Issey Miyake’s Fall 2025 menswear collection unveiled last Thursday, Jan. 23 in Paris. A product of IM Men, the brand’s menswear arm launched in 2021, it is the last to be personally influenced by the eponymous founder himself, who passed away in 2022 at age 84.
Designed by Miyake Design Studio’s team—composed of Sen Kawahara, Yuki Itakura, and Nobutaka Kobayashi—the collection showcased their ability to honor the house founder’s legacy while carving out their own path. Every single piece in the collection is wearable art and an embodiment of the spirit of Japan.
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The venue couldn’t be more perfect for a show that was inspired by contemplation—Le Réfectoire des Cordeliers, a former monastery built in the early 16th century. The runway was stark white and sparsely decorated, lined with huge machines and massive panels rotating as models weaved their way pass them.
The house described the collection’s theme as “embodying the brand’s intention to create products that are born from a free spirit, transcend all barriers, and bring new perspectives and freedom to many people.” True enough, the entire show was a near-hypnotic spectacle that conveyed the feeling of being free through long, flowing, and loosely structured garments.
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Seven categories, five groundbreaking products
The show was divided into seven different categories, each focusing on five products that are all based on the “One Piece of Cloth” philosophy. The overarching theme reflects the brand’s prowess in exploring the possibilities of a single piece of fabric “to its fullest extent.” Each creation then embodies the theme of “freedom,” meaning they can be worn in many different ways depending on your own style.
Issey Miyake’s “Fly” line “features the original form of a single piece of fabric.” The coats could be worn upside down and sideways depending on how you attach the buttons. The fabric is an improved version of the textile from the lightweight “Air” series.
The “Flat Drape” category is all about movement—square shirts, coats and trousers that moved as the models did. Each piece has a generous draping that, when folded, becomes square. When worn, the corners of the squares turn into pleats—an Issey Miyake signature—creating a graceful shape. The use of plant-based polyester made primarily from sugarcane molasses further accentuates the silhouette.
The “Wall” series, meanwhile, highlights recycled polyester outerwear with inside-out design details and transformative hoods. The recycled polyester fabric has a distinct elegant luster and a smooth texture, and is thick yet light and downy. All pieces are wrinkle-resistant and easy to handle—hallmarks of the Issey Miyake brand. You can enjoy wearing the hoods in different ways by transforming the rain cover into a hood or changing the way you fasten the buttons.
Then there’s Issey Miyake’s “Heron,” a line of voluminous coats which were constructed with fray-free Ultrasuede. The material is artificial suede leather made from 100% plant-based polyester developed by Toray Industries, Inc., and uses sugarcane molasses and inedible cornstarch. This is the first time Ultrasuede has been used in clothing.
Its “Switch” coats and trousers, meanwhile, are 100% plant-based nylon fiber, which was made from castor beans and corn. The thin fabric used for the liner is made by Toray Industries, Inc. and is also the first time it has been made into clothing. The fiber has also been developed into a thick twill fabric and used for the main body. All liners are removable, and the trouser liners can be worn as a vest. The coats and blousons (blouse jackets) can be worn however you want to.
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The “Metallic Ultra Boa” section made use of Ultrasuede, artificial sheepskin, and foil printing for its edgy outerwear. Three vertical cuts are made on the bottom edge of the fabric, a zipper is placed inside, and the fabric closed with a twist resulting in a bold sleeve shape that juts out widely around the elbow.
Lastly, the “Kasuri” category shone the spotlight on the eponymous Japanese traditional dyeing technique, wherein a single thread is dyed in different parts to create uneven shades. Cotton threads of three different thicknesses are dyed separately using the Chusen dyeing method. These threads are then arranged as warp and weft threads and woven on a jacquard loom. When the zipper is closed, the sleeves and body are shaped in a gentle spiral. It can be worn in two ways: as a coat or a poncho.
A closer look
Issey Miyake’s new collection is accompanied by a two-day exhibition, also in the same venue. Through the installations, guests can see up close the unique fabrics and details that are developed by combining traditional weaving and dyeing techniques with cutting-edge technology.
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The Issey Miyake website states: “We hope that this exhibition will provide an opportunity for many people, including those involved not only in fashion but also in a wide range of creative fields, to deepen their interactions across boundaries and to explore the future relationship between society and clothing design.”
The collection proves Miyake’s legacy lives on through Kawahara, Itakura, and Kobayashi, who have all shown, through the show and exhibition, that they are more than capable of steering the iconic label into an exciting new chapter.
You can watch the show here.
