Paris and Milan have a knack for creating uncanny universes inhabited by brands that chart their distinct territories.
In Paris, Bode brought its unique splendor with an otherworldly show at the Théâtre du Châtelet. Véronique Nichanian played with the idea of vestiaire masculine at Hermes, while Matthew M. Williams reconstructed a new sense of formality for Givenchy.
Grace Wales Bonner collaborated with Anderson & Sheppard on Savile Row, while Colm Dillane, who made his debut as the first designer to co-create a collection for Louis Vuitton, riffed off the boyhood narrative that Abloh developed during his eight seasons in the house. Meanwhile, Nigo’s interpretation of Kenzo is starting to catch on.
In Milan, Gucci presented a pre-Sabato De Sarno collection that lacked overall coherence, and Prada’s “Let’s Talk About Clothes” collection leaned heavily toward the ’60s with a significant emphasis on boxy tailoring.
Our Legacy welcomed indie sleaze, JW Anderson counseled “we shouldn’t be terrified of rebellion” for this season, and Zegna Artistic Director Alessandro Sartori presented “The Oasi of Cashmere.”
Throughout January’s major events, there was much to reflect about, from overindulging in fabrics to an endless take of a “modern man.” Here are trends, moments, and impressions from the FW23 men’s shows that MANTLE observed.
Louis Gabriel nouchi went American Psycho
At Louis-Gabriel Nouchi’s AW23 show, Lucas Bravo (Emily in Paris) traded in his chef’s whites to assume the role of Patrick Bateman: the villain protagonist in Bret Easton Ellis’ 1991 debut novel and 2000 film, American Psycho.
New it shoe
These Prada moccasins are about to reign supreme.
Wales Bonner, Givenchy, and Prada left no crumbs.
Front row kings
Robert Pattinson, Jimin and JHope of BTS, Kit Conner, Adam di Marco, and Noah Beck are some of the highly visible men dressing in highly visible ways.
Abloh at heart
Dillane leaves his own imprint on the home that Louis built while still preserving Abloh’s vision by drawing on that same spirit of colorful astonishment. Although this is a fresh chapter for Louis Vuitton, it comfortingly reads like the last one.
With Palace + Junya Watanabe and Sacai + Carhartt, collaborations are becoming more commonplace than they were five years ago when just a select few major streetwear and sneaker brands engaged with them.