From charming bed & breakfasts to artisanal bakeries, the sugar capital of the Philippine is throbbing with life and teeming with new experiences.
Slow and languid have always been used to describe life in Bacolod. The country’s sugar capital is home to elegant ancestral homes, soulful food, and smiling locals whose way of life is marked by both sweetness and resilience.
Located about an hour away from the airport, the city is nestled in the middle of vast sugarcane plantations, with a dramatic backdrop of mountains rising from a distance.
Bacolod conjures images of lazy afternoons, of hacienderos playing cards and their women engaged in fierce mahjong matches, with the steady hum of tractors ferrying freshly harvested sugarcanes not too far away.
But something new is stirring the once languorous air. Bacolod is experiencing a boom.
Post-pandemic, Bacolodnons have been enjoying an upswing, thanks to development in real estate, retail, business, and hospitality contributing to a burgeoning economy and an increasingly improving quality of life. Shiny new restaurants and hotels stand cheek by jowl with time-honored favorites.
This sense of renewed optimism extends to the highlands of Don Salvador Benedicto and Lantawan Roads in Silay, which have become more accessible thanks to new roads.
Indeed, Bacolod is serving glowed-up energy while staying true to its heritage. There’s still Manukan Country and Aboy’s, Bongbong’s and El Ideal goodies, and of course, everybody’s favorite Calea Chocolate cake. But there are also new and unexpected finds that make the city even more exciting.
Here’s a cheat sheet of some of the city’s newest must-try establishments and a few of the most enduring ones.
21 Restaurant
Banner: file photo
The beloved Lacson Street institution, founded by Lydia dela Rama Gamboa and still called by many as “Bar 21,” serves a marvelous Batchoy, a delicious Bacolodnon icon with pork, liver, chicharon, and noodles served in a magnificent broth that deserves its own pilgrimage. No visit to the city would be complete without a bowl or two of this “love in a bowl,” which is good to share.
The restaurant also pulls off classics like Lutik, a thick homey squash soup that reminds loyal clients of their days on the farm. There’s also the irresistible Lola Nitang’s Bibingka to cap off your meal on a sweet note.
Seda Capitol Central
The midrise hotel is a dependable address and short stroll to the city’s cultural stops like the Commonwealth era-Provincial Capitol and the recently spruced up Negros Museum, along with a bevy of shopping and dining choices. The Negros Showroom and Ayala Mall-Capitol Mall are also just a few minutes away on foot.
Seda Capitol Central’s rooftop bar overlooking the man-made lagoon and park grounds is a lovely spot to relax for sundown tipples and happy hour as the day turns into night.
Stephen’s at Balay Puti
Nearby Silay is blessed with many grand colonial homes, each with its own stories to tell. One of the more interesting addresses is the old Ledesma mansion, lit up with new life as Stephen’s at Balay Puti.
Local lore has it that heiress Adela Ledesma had the second floor of the mansion removed so as not to see the home of her former lover across the street. The house came into disrepair as she became a ghostly recluse, leaving only the house to hear Mass on a limo that almost looked like a hearse, earning her the nickname “aswang” among the townsfolk.
The house’s present custodian has chased away the ghosts of the past and reframed those tales into a menu of favorites, celebrating straightforward and well balanced flavors, consistent techniques, and familial service, in a patrician yet comfortable setting.
Negrense chef Stephen Escalante and his team serve sunshine with their Eurocentric dishes and homegrown Negrense favorites. Think succulent steaks, fresh seafood, and tempting desserts, with an impressive cocktail and wine menu for those go-for-broke celebratory nights—which in these parts does not mean paying a princely sum, unlike in Manila.
Melken’s Seafood
Some classics are hidden, known only through word of mouth and by discerning locals. One of them is seafood mecca Melken’s, located by the shores of Barangay Balarin in Silay. As a port city, Bacolod, as well as neighboring Silay and Talisay, is blessed with an abundance of seafood.
Melken’s is known for its no-fuss, affordable, and lip-smacking crabs, shrimps, tanigue, and squid paired with its mouth watering grilled liempo that go well with ice cold beer. This rustic joint’s affable staff adds to its charm, making it a favorite stop for lunch.
The Shophouse Heritage
As nighttime beckons, Bacolod Chinatown transforms into a hive of activity. And The Shophouse Heritage draws a steady crowd of all ages who come for its impressive food and drink offerings.
Inspired by shophouses in Singapore, the retail strip is home to coffee and ice cream shops, quaint restaurants serving Middle Eastern and Asian plates, like Yumla, which doubles as a night spot with dancing and DJ acts for those looking to dance the night away.
Rustic Ridge Resort
With better Lantawan roads heading up to Patag highlands, Rustic Ridge Resort is a hidden gem for those wanting to escape the city. Creative and enterprising owner JecJec Zayco initially used the property as her personal retreat within the mountains. She then transformed it to a charming bed and breakfast with soothing views and soulful corners that ease the mind and invigorate the spirit. Brunch time is just as feel-good, from their Arroz Cubana to local Budbud-Egg-Rice.
Ilaya Highlands Resort
Barangay Patag is an idyllic mountain location that has attracted Negrenses since the American colonial era. It boasts the majestic Pulang Tubig Waterfall and a cool breeze which helped local tuberculosis patients recover back in the 1930s.
Today, cozy cafes and private resorts line the meandering roads, offering the perfect respite from the concrete jungle that is Bacolod. Ilaya Highlands Resort takes one of the top spots, offering spacious villas, glamping facilities, and infinity pools overlooking the Guimaras Strait and beyond.
Cafe Bob’s
Nothing exemplifies the Bacolod glow up more than the flagship branch of Bob’s on Lacson Street, a popular local restaurant owned by the Magalona family. The dining experience is a unique coming together of café, restaurant, bakery, deli, and cigar room vibes.
Café Bob’s blends sentimentality—with its old wooden planks from the former residence now lining the master staircase—with hip industrial vibes. Its offerings include savory and sweet treats, such as its homemade Ensaymada with Excellente ham toasted to perfection.
Sugarland Hotel
As a landmark establishment, the 50-year-old property recently shunned dark tones for a contemporary tropical hacienda feel. Its guest rooms are charming and its revamped restaurant a must try, given that its one of the city’s most popular event spaces. Sugarland Hotel still exudes its trademark inimitable charm that has drawn guests to it since the Yusay family first opened its doors.
Orange Project
Situated within the city’s evolving art district, you’ll find that co-owner and contemporary artist Charlie Co, a respected figure in the Philippine art scene, is always open to a conversation on a variety of topics. Whether playing host to art events or serving as a platform to promote Visayan artists, Orange Project is always a welcoming and enlightening space.
V&W Bakery
The artisanal bakery’s cloud-like cheese rolls and ensaymadas, and heavenly pastries like its Strawberry Cheesecake have become the city’s newest dessert favorites. Oh, V&W also serves up sumptuous breakfast plates and excellent coffee, too!
Boasting a cult following, owners Vanessa Zayco and William Espina make sure they always cook up a storm, making V&W Bakery one of the most remarkable things to come out of Bacolod in recent times.
