…making the road to Rioja a straightforward journey through the stomach.
On this four-hour visit to Spain’s Cantabria by way of The Westin Manila, two of these must-haves were on the table and one was, well, the inevitable outcome. “A Taste of Rioja” is Cantabria by Chele Gonzalez’s first wine dinner held last Nov. 28.
The five-course meal prepared by chef Chele Gonzalez and chef de cuisine Ivan Saiz Sordo featured dishes from the northern coast of Spain, and wines from Rioja, a famed wine region with storybook landscapes best known for growing Tempranillo grapes.
The entire experience once again proved that the second best way to travel is via one’s tastebuds, as it well represented the region’s seafood and meat dishes in a sequence that was not only sensible but also ascended in flavor and elicited excitement.
The Ensalada de Bacalao (confit cod fish, apple, baby romaine leaf, walnuts and truffle dressing) was paired with Lopez de Heredia Viña Gravonia Blanco 2016, a viura with notes of citrus, honey, and hints of nuttiness. It comes from one of the oldest bodegas in Rioja, founded in 1877. The wine uses 100 percent estate-bottled fruit and is aged in American oak, which lends smoothness to the dry white.
The refreshing opener was followed by Crema de Patatas a la Riojana, one of Rioja’s signature stews made of potato creamy soup, homemade chorizo, and caramelized bell peppers. It was paired with the first tempranillo of the evening, the Remirez de Ganuza Erre Punto 2023, a light-bodied red wine with notes of red wild fruit and delicate floral nuances. A product of carbonic maceration, it’s a light-bodied red that’s best served chilled.
The mains were—no surprise here—showstoppers. The Secreto Iberico con Menestra de Verduras (grilled secreto Iberico pork, vegetable ragout, onion, and thyme veloute) proved itself the addictively robust, fatty, and salty yang to the Sierra Cantabria Vinedo de Paganos El Puntido 2015’s quietly spicy but full-bodied yin. While the restaurant offers many crowd favorites, its pork dishes are not to be missed.
The Cordero Lacado con Arroz de Setas (slow braised lamb, mushroom and snow peas rice, Rioja lamb jus) and Marques de Vargas Gran Reserva 2016 was a match made in heaven (or the Cantabria kitchen). Like many penultimate dishes in multi-course meals, it was the heaviest of the lot—carby and meaty, with loads of flavor. Like any good wine pairing, the final tempranillo balanced it all out with hints of cherries, blackberries, cranberries, and spicy-balsamic flavors.
The final tempranillo’s characteristics made for a fitting segue to dessert: Sobao Pasiego, Cantabria’s delicacy cake with cheese ice cream and berries coulis. A well-earned extended siesta, of course, followed.
“This is the first of the series of wine dinners we’ll be offering in the restaurant,” explains Westin Manila general manager Alexander Dietzsch. “The next one is scheduled on Dec. 17 and will feature wines from Bordeaux, which is known as the world’s most famous and largest wine region. Chefs Chele Gonzalez and Ivan Saiz Sordo will also create a new 5-course menu to pair with wines from the left and right banks of the Gironde River.”
Featured wines for the Bordeaux dinner are Chateau Grand Bateau Blanc Bordeaux AOC 2022, Chateau Secret Grand Bateau Rouge, Bordeaux AOC 2020, Chateau Branas Grand Poujeaux “Les Eclats de Branas” 2016, and Jean Pierre Moueix Saint Émilion 2019.
The Bordeaux Wine Dinner is offered at P5,900+ per person. Those interested can book here. The restaurant is also accepting bookings for Christmas celebrations on December 24 and 25; book here. For New Year’s Eve dinner on December 31, book here.
Cantabria is located on the top floor of The Westin Manila along San Miguel Avenue corner Lourdes Drive, Ortigas Center, Mandaluyong. Visit its website or follow @cantabria.manila and @westinmanilahotel on Facebook and Instagram for updates and announcements.
