Executive chef Monnipa Ruthong’s culinary style—like Thai cuisine—is robust, sincere, and deeply personal.
We all love Thailand for many reasons, but the cuisine tops the list—making the kingdom one of the most exciting culinary destinations in the world. As the only Southeast Asian nation never colonized, Thailand stands at a unique crossroads of Chinese and Indian influences. Its cuisine is a harmonious blend of sweet, salty, sour, and spicy flavors, grounded in fresh ingredients and aromatic herbs, with regional nuances that vary from home to home.
Bangkok-born Monnipa “Ying” Ruthong, executive chef of The Peninsula Bangkok’s riverside Thiptara restaurant, knows this by heart. Chef Ying was at The Peninsula Manila last week for the one-night-only “Flavors of the White Elephant Kingdom” dinner at Spices restaurant.
Her culinary style reflects the soul of Thai cooking: robust, sincere, and deeply personal. With a focus on harmony and balance, she combines locally sourced ingredients with time-honored techniques. Her journey began early—learning in the family kitchen—and has since taken her across international kitchens, refining a cooking philosophy rooted in flavor, texture, and care.
She leans into the comfort of beloved, traditional dishes—no gimmicks, no avant-garde reinterpretations, no overwrought fusions. Just straightforward Thai food, deeply rooted in culture and place. What elevates her cooking isn’t reinvention but context: an appreciation of the regional foundations behind every dish, from the sticky rice and fish sauce traditions of the Isaan northeast to the intensely spiced fare of the southern provinces.
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We met the spirited chef during a preview of her exclusive degustation at The Peninsula Manila’s Spices restaurant, followed by an afternoon cooking session. Here, our assumptions about Thai food were lovingly upended. There were no “Filipino palate” calibrations—just honest, sincere Thai cuisine.
The beauty of the experience lay in rediscovering dishes we thought we knew. With chef Ying, the familiarity deepens rather than fades. Her approach brings to life not just recipes, but inherited secrets and subtle tricks passed through generations. For those wary of spice levels, worry not: the choice to dial up (or down) the heat is left to the diner, with chilis, herbs, and sauces on the side.
“Thai dishes often comprise numerous ingredients and intricate steps that demand time and attention to prepare,” she noted in a past interview with The Beat Asia.
Our tasting began with the bold yet refreshingly balanced Yum Nua Yang — a grilled striploin beef salad with tomatoes, mint, chili, and lime dressing. This Thai classic received a thoughtful glow-up: layers of flavor from a meticulous marinade, perfectly timed aromatics, and a seasoned restraint that made every bite bright, not brash.
Next came a standout: Khao Soi Gai Yang, a northern-style yellow curry with crispy egg noodles, grilled chicken, pickled vegetables, and lime. This was, for many, the highlight of the night. The interplay of spice, creaminess, and acidity hit all the right notes. It was soulful without being overwhelming, refined yet comforting. Dunking those crispy noodles into the curry? Pure joy.
We ended on a sweet high with Khao Niew Mamuang (sticky rice with mango). But this wasn’t your average version. Chef Ying’s take included subtle yet effective tweaks: a rice infused with smokiness, thanks to a special local candle, and perfectly warmed coconut milk—making the dessert feel intimate, indulgent, and elevated.
Earlier that day, she also shared her refined takes on Pla Tod Yum Mamuang (crispy seabass with green mango salad), replacing the traditional catfish with meatier seabass and dressing it in a winning tamarind chili paste sauce. Her upcoming Tom Yam promises to be equally intriguing when it debuts this June.
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Having started in her mother’s kitchen, it’s no surprise that Chef Ying brings a sense of care and rootedness to every dish. For her, cooking is about sharing—a gesture of love and culture. There are no shortcuts in her kitchen. Every step, every ingredient, is deliberate.
This devotion, paired with her home-style sensibility, gives her food an intimacy that feels both nostalgic and new. Her plates speak with the quiet confidence of experience and instinct. She doesn’t dazzle with flair; she connects with flavor.
For reservations at The Peninsula Manila’s Spices restaurant, call +632 8887 2888 ext. 6694 or email diningPMN@peninsula.com
