The designer’s namesake label also showcased an exciting new collaboration with fellow British brand Barbour.
British designer Paul Smith continues to blaze new trails after over 50 years in the fashion industry. And his Fall/Winter 2025, unveiled in Paris last week, shows how the septuagenarian remains a force to be reckoned with.
Smith is known for his eclectic style that combines classic tailoring made edgier with a modern twist, with his label synonymous with vibrant colors, particularly its trademark multi-colored stripes. These hallmarks of the Paul Smith aesthetic are on full display once more in the eccentric yet deeply personal show that saw the coming together of fashion and photography.
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A deeply personal collection
The notes on the Paul Smith website stated: “For our AW25 collection, we look to the other side of the lens, focusing on the personal style of some of the 20th century’s most influential photographers.” It promised elegant tailoring fabrics and classic silhouettes, which are subverted through subtle pattern clashes, exaggerated proportions, and unexpected textures.
What makes Paul Smith’s AW 2025 menswear even more special is that it is inspired by the photographs taken by his dad, Harold B. Smith. The “Field Flower” motif, based on photos of wild daisies taken by the elder Smith, served as the collection’s central theme. It runs through the shirts, ties, and luxurious jacquard knitwear, weaving Paul Smith’s personal history into the very fabric of the collection.
Guests are greeted by a venue that’s made to look like a dark room, complete with buckets of emulsion, hanging negatives, and even a stainless steel sink. A booklet featuring some of the work of Smith senior, an amateur photographer and a founding member of the Beeston camera club in Nottinghamshire, was placed on each seat as a thoughtful keepsake.
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In keeping with the show’s intimate theme, there were only about 200 guests, as opposed to shows like Louis Vuitton’s which had almost 2,000. It was also Paul himself who guided the audience through the spectacle, offering insightful commentary on the designs.
Smith mentioned, as quoted in The Guardian, that his father was an “observant” man, often capturing “little moments that other people would have missed.” The younger Smith’s lauded works, not just the ones in this collection, but through over five decades are a testament to how he takes after his dad’s creativity and meticulousness.
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A new collaboration
Paul Smith’s AW 2025 menswear also marks our very first look at “Paul Smith Loves Barbour,” a new collaboration between two of Britain’s most well-loved names in fashion.
The collab added a dose of country charm and nostalgia through reimagined versions of Barbour coats in unusual shades of waxed cotton. Friesian cow motifs add a sprinkle of whimsy and playfulness without taking away the elegance.
Time-honored traditions were given a fresh treatment. Stiff Herringbone wool was softened through a gentle laundering process. Houndstooth and Prince of Wales checks jazz up not just clothing but also footwear and accessories. Tailored jackets made from contrasting fabrics create memorable patchwork effects.
Paul Smith’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection proves that with a dose of bold creativity, traditional techniques and vintage styles can feel both timeless and fresh.
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