No creative director, no drama. Gucci keeps it classic and rooted in its heritage for F/W 2025

Gucci is in transition, but this collection didn’t feel like a brand searching for direction. It felt steady.

With no creative director after Sabato De Sarno’s sudden departure, there was curiosity about what the brand would deliver. But Gucci didn’t scramble for a new direction. The in-house design team stepped up, and rather than trying to redefine the brand, they leaned into its legacy. The result is a collection that felt familiar: classic, refined, and rooted in Gucci’s heritage.

The collection took inspiration from house founder Guccio Gucci, pulling classic brand references with a particular focus on ’70s flair.

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The show’s setting was understated but rich. The runway was shaped like the Interlocking G logo, marking its 50th anniversary. More than a design choice, the symbol represents Gucci’s ability to weave individual stories into a larger whole. It is a nod to the brand’s founder but also to the many who have shaped it along the way. Deep green carpeting and velvet curtains framed the space, making it feel elegant without being flashy. A live orchestra, led by La La Land composer Justin Hurwitz, played an original score.

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Coats were long and sharp, the kind you throw on over anything and instantly look put together. There were soft slip dresses that peeked out from underneath, balancing the strong outerwear with something lighter. There was a mix of textures. Some pieces are sheen, others felt soft and plush. Everything looked easy to wear but still, very Gucci, meaning still very expensive.

The deep red from De Sarno’s time was gone. Instead, green dominated, appearing in coats, bags, and even the outfits worn by the design team when they took their final bow. Neutral shades like brown and gray gave the collection a timeless feel, while pops of purple and chartreuse kept things fresh without being too loud.

The front row was packed with stars, including Jessica Chastain, Julia Garner, Daisy Edgar-Jones, and Jin from BTS. The White Lotus fans might have spotted Parker Posey and Sam Nivola in the audience. But the biggest moment of the night wasn’t about celebrities. It was when the Gucci design team took their final bow in matching green sweatshirts.

Gucci is in transition, but this collection didn’t feel like a brand searching for direction. It felt steady. The house didn’t try to reinvent itself or force something new.

All images from Gucci

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