Sabato De Sarno’s take on casual grandeur and retro glam gives Gucci a fresh spin

You can tell De Sarno has taken Gucci in a new direction, but with the same irreverence and spirit that made the label iconic.

Gucci’s spring-summer 2025 collection is a nod to the sensuality of sunsets and summer nights. With creative director Sabato De Sarno in charge, the collection named “Casual Grandeur” took a trip back to the 1960s while embracing the cool versatility of contemporary dressing.

As he reshaped Gucci since taking over in 2023, De Sarno has created a line that mixes tailored looks with a laid-back attitude. That first look was clean, understated: A tailored zip-up jacket and floor-skimming trousers flared over sneakers. It was this mix of casual and formal that defined the range: sharp tailoring mixed with carefree summer vibes.

On the runway itself, lit in tones that ranged from stark white to warm amber that mimicked a setting sun, an image that De Sarno said inspired his color choices and mood. The palette was earthy browns, soft greys and greens with pops of orange and red that suggested city sophistication mixed with beach relaxation.

The 1960s influence was evident in mini A-line skirts, structured jackets and playful shorts. Several looks paid homage to Jackie Kennedy classics, with the silk headscarves and oversized sunglasses added that retro punch. Some coats carried beaded fringes.

More daring, modern touches include thigh-high boots inspired by Gucci’s horsebit loafers and platform shoes. Large, floppy summer hats and various handbags, including the new Gucci B bag, completed the casual yet polished look.

Big accessories like chunky gold bangles and arm cuffs turned the flowy lingerie dresses into evening showstoppers. Lace slip dresses, some sheer and some sparkled in sequins, swept down the runway in a playful contrast to the structured outerwear. Golden buckles, GG monogrammed fabrics, and even nods to Tom Ford’s sexier Gucci era with slinky black-and-white maxi dresses.

Even if the collection could be read as a departure from the maximalist eccentricity of Gucci’s former creative director Alessandro Michele, it was still bold. De Sarno’s “casual grandeur” embodies a new freedom and ease, along with a refined yet approachable luxury. A combination of beach-chic tank tops with sharp suiting and Gucci floral headscarves embodies this delicate balance.

You can tell De Sarno has taken Gucci in a new direction, but still with the same irreverence and spirit that made the label iconic. From denim over lightweight shirts to biker gloves over sleek leather jackets, feels like a nod to the past while pushing towards a fresher, more versatile future.

Watch Gucci’s Spring-Summer 2025 show below:

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