It’s clear that De Sarno has taken Gucci into a new direction, but with the same irreverence and spirit that made the brand iconic.
Gucci’s spring-summer 2025 collection, showcased at Milan Fashion Week, is a vibrant homage to the sensuality of sunsets and the easy elegance of summer nights. With creative director Sabato De Sarno at the helm, the collection aptly titled “Casual Grandeur” took a nostalgic trip to the 1960s, while embracing the chic versatility of contemporary dressing.
De Sarno, who has been reshaping Gucci since taking over in 2023, crafted a line that marries high-fashion tailoring with an effortless, relaxed attitude. The show began with a clean, understated look: a tailored zip-up jacket paired with floor-skimming trousers that flared over sneakers. This blend of casual and formal set the tone for the collection, which oscillated between sharp tailoring and carefree summer vibes.
The runway itself, lit in tones that transitioned from stark white to warm amber, mimicked the descent of the sun into the sea—an image De Sarno referenced as the inspiration behind his color choices and mood. The palette was a rich blend of earthy browns, soft greys, and greens, contrasted by bursts of orange and red, evoking the balance of city sophistication and coastal relaxation.
The 1960s influence was prominent, with mini A-line skirts, structured jackets, and playful shorts strutting down the runway. Some looks nodded to Jackie Kennedy’s timeless style, with silk headscarves and oversized sunglasses delivering a nostalgic punch. A few coats sparkled with beaded fringes, adding a dose of whimsical luxury to the collection.
But the magic didn’t stop with retro glamour. De Sarno also showcased more daring, modern touches—thigh-high boots reimagined from Gucci’s iconic horsebit loafers and transparent heels on platform shoes. Large, floppy summer hats and a variety of handbags—including the brand-new Gucci B bag—added to the casual yet polished aesthetic.
One standout was the use of bold accessories, like chunky gold bangles and arm cuffs that transformed the flowy, lingerie-inspired dresses into evening showstoppers. Lace slip dresses, some sheer and some glimmering in sequins, flowed effortlessly across the runway, offering a playful contrast to the structured outerwear. In true Gucci fashion, the details carried the narrative: gold buckles, GG monogrammed fabrics, and even nods to Tom Ford’s sexier Gucci era with slinky black-and-white maxi dresses.
While the collection might be interpreted as a move away from the maximalist eccentricity of Gucci’s previous creative director, Alessandro Michele, it didn’t shy away from making a bold statement. De Sarno’s “casual grandeur” encapsulates a new sense of freedom and ease, channeling a sophisticated yet approachable luxury. The blend of beach-inspired tank tops with sharp suiting, along with the ever-present Gucci Flora headscarves, embodied this delicate balance.
It’s clear that De Sarno has taken Gucci in a new direction, but with the same irreverence and spirit that made the brand iconic. From denim paired with lightweight shirts to biker gloves styled with sleek leather jackets, the collection feels like a nod to the past while pushing towards a fresher, more versatile future.
Watch Gucci’s Spring-Summer 2025 show below:
