The Italian designer’s two-year tenure was bogged down by sluggish sales.
Hot off the heels of Kim Jones bidding Dior farewell and Maison Margiela welcoming Glenn Martens, is another major fashion shakeup—and a rather abrupt one at that. On Thursday, Feb. 6, Gucci announced in a statement the end of its collaboration with its creative director Sabato De Sarno.
Making the news particularly shocking is that it comes a few weeks before the label’s Fall/Winter 2025 fashion show in Milan on February 25. The statement clarified that the collection will be presented by the Gucci design office and that a new artistic director “will be announced in due time.”
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A tenure cut short
The 42-year-old Italian designer held the position for just under two years, succeeding Alessandro Michele, who also had a rather surprising departure after a decade with the brand. De Sarno’s exit is Stefano Cantino’s first major move as Gucci’s new chief executive, a decision that comes at a time when luxury spending is in a decline amid global economic and political uncertainties.
“I would like to express my deep gratitude to Sabato for his passion and dedication to Gucci,” said Cantino. “I sincerely appreciate how he honored Gucci’s craftsmanship and heritage with such commitment.”
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Francesca Bellettini, deputy CEO of Gucci’s parent company Kering, meanwhile, also expressed her appreciation for De Sarno, adding he had “further strengthened Gucci’s fundamentals.” Aside from Gucci, Kering also owns luxury labels Saint Laurent, Bottega Veneta, Balenciaga, Alexander McQueen, among others.
And in true merry-go-round fashion, De Sarno came to Gucci from Valentino—where his Gucci predecessor Michele is now creative director. De Sarno sought broader appeal for the brand, which he did by going back to essential silhouettes and wardrobe basics, paring down the excesses of which Michele is known.
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Disappointing sales
The Naples-born’s tenure, unfortunately, was hounded by struggling sales. De Sarno’s move to Gucci was met with much fanfare, and even accompanied by a documentary. Profits, however, fell short of expectations.
According to a report on the Associated Press, Kering earnings have been plummeting, with third quarter revenues down 15% to 3.8 billion euros as Gucci revenue plunged 26% to 1.6 billion euros. These numbers are the worst results in its stable of fashion houses and among the worst in the industry, according to The New York Times. The company is expected to release its full-year earnings in a few days.
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Barclays analyst Carole Madjo, in a Reuters report, said that the 124-year-old atelier, famed for its handbags, loafers, and belts, may be facing an uphill climb toward recovery. “Gucci has rather unfavorable cards in its hands—very exposed to China, middle-class income customers, and a brand that has been in decline for the last 3-4 years,” she said. “The top priority should be to make the brand more popular and fashionable again.”
Beyond De Sarno’s departure, the recent high-profile changes in the upper tier of luxury fashion houses is the industry’s response to weak Chinese demand and consumer anxiety. Given the current bleak landscape, brand managers hope these changes would spark excitement and induce consumption.
Still, fashion aficionados have much to look forward to, with 10 new designers making their debuts at esteemed fashion houses this year, including Calvin Klein, Chanel, Tom Ford, Givenchy, and Bottega Veneta.
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