Formerly one of the UK’s most valuable public companies, the iconic brand is trying to appeal to a different kind of consumer.
Ever since Burberry was established in 1856, the global luxury brand has been a representation of British sophistication. At this year’s London Fashion Week, however, Burberry gave the fashion world quite a surprise by revamping its signature elegant look for a collection with a fresh, utilitarian edge and streetwear-inspired vibe.
The concept was initiated by Burberry creative director Daniel Lee who, together with chief executive Joshua Schulman, has been changing the luxury brand’s direction to make it more appealing to high-end shoppers who now prefer quiet luxury clothing.
The 168-year-old brand’s share price has fallen 50.8 percent in the past six months, and 71.4 percent in the past year as of Sept. 4.
For the launch held earlier today, Sept. 17, Burberry switched from last year’s faux grass runway, jazz instrumental music, and dim lighting at Victoria Park to a casual-style production at London’s National Theatre. The brand collaborated with artist and sculptor Gary Hume for a set inspired by his 1990 art installation Bays.
Hume added life to the building’s brutalist interiors by filling up its ground floor with torn teal fabrics used to cover trucks. The area is also smaller than last year’s, turning the show into an intimate one with fewer guests.
Burberry’s spring-summer 2025 collection infused the luxury brand’s rich heritage with a sense of freedom and familiarity. Burberry classics, particularly trench coats, were slashed to the waist and transformed into voluminous ponchos or bomber jackets.
The opening look was a contemporary take on the men’s trench coat — the front is uneven, while the sleeves and shoulders are embellished with straps and buckles of varying sizes. The white ensemble is paired with gray trousers and Burberry’s leather Stock sneakers in lavender.
According to Lee, the distinctive look puts the brand’s iconic piece — the trench — in the spotlight and, at the same time, makes it more relatable to today’s men who are more likely to buy jackets than coats. “We need to find smart ways to evolve Burberry beyond a runway collection to what works in stores,” Lee said in an interview with The Guardian. “Burberry is a coat brand, and a coat is something people invest in.”
Utilitarian style is likewise reflected in the collection’s embroidered blazers, mesh polos, checkered uniforms, low-waist pants, and cargo gear with plenty of strapped chest pockets, belts, and bags. Paneled dresses came with military-style underpinnings while monochromatic nautical gear was accessorized with scarves printed with stripes and pops of color.
Gowns in various lengths, colors, and styles glistened in their sequin fabric. Linen and chiffon dresses were layered with oversized parkas that can easily be unbuttoned during weather changes. In addition, the collection featured rare graphics that reflect Hume’s abstract paintings. Feather trims, ruffle hems, and flapper sequins meanwhile added a fancy touch to the collection.
Of course, a Burberry fashion show wouldn’t be one without the luxury brand’s iconic check. Lee made sure to incorporate Burberry’s signature pattern in skinny scarves, saddle and belt bags, as well as tracksuits. ”I really like the check,” the British designer remarked. “I want to treat it as one of the most precious elements of the house, in the way that the trench is.”
Burberry spring 2025’s color palette was likewise put together by Lee differently. Like the fashion powerhouse’s previous collections, its spring-summer catalog is predominantly neutral, with blacks, grays, camels, and creams to emphasize the collection’s utilitarian aesthetic. What’s unique, though, are the pops of color — lime green, pastel pink, and electric orange seen on pants, skirts, and dresses.
“We’re searching to bring more optimism, a sense of joy, lightness and summertime to Burberry which isn’t typically a summertime brand. But the color still felt relevant,” Lee noted. “The muted tones still had the sense of the outdoors of things that don’t feel too precious. You can wear them day to night. That’s what Burberry is for.”
The designer reflected the same purposeful, refreshing concept to the bags, which were lightweight and unstructured. Roomy hobos and bucket bags also comprise the lineup. Lee’s favorite is one shaped like a saddle and feels “durable in the daytime, something you’d bring outdoors.”
Burberry has been overhauling its business strategy and aesthetic since Schulman was installed as chief executive in July. His appointment comes before the luxury icon’s exit from UK’s Financial Times Stock Exchange (FTSE) 100 index which, according to CNN, was caused by a steep fall in value following a plunge in sales and profits.
In the past six months, the 168-year-old retailer’s share price has fallen 50.8 percent, and 71.4 percent in the past year as of Sept. 4. Schulman’s installment is the brand’s dramatic attempt to regain its status as one of the UK’s most valuable public companies. Schulman, who previously boosted Coach’s profile with affordable handbags, is expected to bring Burberry to a wider market with lower-entry price points and designs that are accessible to and preferred by today’s consumers.
