Looks like romance is back on the menu at the iconic Spanish label.
Balenciaga finally gets a new creative director in Pierpaolo Piccioli, two months after controversial designer Demna, who now heads Gucci, left the storied Spanish fashion house.
Kering, Balenciaga’s parent company, made the announcement on its website yesterday, May 20. The appointment is set to be effective July 10, 2025. In the statement, Gianfranco Gianangeli, Balenciaga’s (also newly appointed) CEO, said that he’s excited to usher in a new era with Pierpaolo at the creative helm. “His creative vision will thrive, and he will perfectly interpret the legacy of Cristóbal Balenciaga, building on the House’s bold creativity, rich heritage and strong culture,” he added.
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Meanwhile, Francesca Bellettini, Kering deputy CEO and head of Brand Development, said that she “couldn’t be happier” to welcome Piccioli to the company, adding that he is one of “the most talented and celebrated designers of today.” Bellettini cited his mastery of haute couture, creative voice, and passion for savoir-faire as making him the ideal choice to lead Balenciaga. She also thanked Demna for the “bold, distinctive vision” he brought to the label over the past ten years, helping shape the house’s identity in the contemporary era.
On his appointment, Piccioli acknowledged those who came before him, saying that “Balenciaga is what it is today thanks to all the people who have paved the way.” He added that what he is “receiving is a brand full of possibilities [and] that is incredibly fascinating.” The 57-year-old Italian designer also thanked Demna, whom he says he’s always admired.
With Piccioli calling the shots at the 106-year-old label founded by the legendary Spanish fashion designer Cristóbal Balenciaga, fashion observers say that we should expect it to go back to its roots, given Piccioli’s “predilection for not only couture but the trappings of conventionally luxurious luxury.” As creative director of Valentino, which he held from 2008 to 2024 ( jointly with Maria Grazia Chiuri from 2008 to 2016), he made his mark for his soft, feminine, and elegant designs.
This is in stark contrast with Demna’s work with Balenciaga, which was, at times, deemed too provocative and controversial. Case in point: his “memecore” approach to high fashion, which saw the birth of luxury towel skirts, trash bags, and even a (quite ugly, I daresay) tape bracelet and Crocs Heel. His creations were wildly popular and had a loyal celebrity following, but were also met with raised eyebrows and sparked fiery debates on the concept of “luxury streetwear.”
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Under Piccioli, it looks like romance will be back on the menu at Balenciaga. So maybe billowing skirts, sculptural dresses, and dramatic silhouettes? After watching the Cristóbal Balenciaga series on Disney+, which I reviewed for The POST, I think Balenciaga, the master of haute couture, will approve of the appointment.
This is the latest chapter in the seemingly endless game of musical chairs in the upper tiers of luxury fashion houses, which The POST has religiously followed. Earlier this year, Proenza Schouler founders Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez were named Loewe’s new creative directors, Demna jumped from Balenciaga to Gucci, Jonathan Anderson bid Loewe goodbye, and Donatella Versace said farewell to the brand founded by her late brother Gianni.
Looking at the bigger picture, these rejigs are a symptom of a malaise hounding the luxury fashion industry, owing to geopolitical factors that include an unpredictable trade war, trickier market conditions, and weak American and Chinese demand. In its report last January, consultants Bain & Company estimated that only about a third of the world’s luxury brands experienced growth in 2024. The POST has also reported on the dismal sales of fashion groups such as Kering and LVMH, and most recently, Burberry.
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