COMO Castello del Nero’s 12th-century castle stands on top of a hill, and houses suites that feature original fireplaces, and walls covered with centuries-old murals.
After attending a grand wedding in Tuscany, I decided to stay an extra two days in the world famous Chianti wine region with the sole intention of luxuriating. I could have gone to a coastal town and hibernated right by a yacht-crowded harbor. Or lodged myself in a town surrounded by sangiovese grosso grapes.
Another option would have been to hide in a quaint and quiet village with a population of fewer than a hundred people. Or a resort by the walled medieval city of Lucca. I knew, after spending an ample amount of hours researching online, that I was spoilt for choice. But of the gracious lot, there was only one accommodation that I believed would guarantee a stay that was fit for a king—the COMO Castello del Nero.
For starters, the property is spread over a 740-acre estate. It has a grand twelfth-century castle adorned with Renaissance frescoes, terracotta floors, and contemporary interiors. Steeped in rich history, the valiant structure stands on top of a hill and houses suites that are armed with original fireplaces and walls covered with centuries-old mural paintings.
Related story: Luxembourg: European travel de luxe
Related story: Where to stay: A guide to Budapest’s top neighborhoods
My one-bedroom abode didn’t have both. But what it did boast was an unobstructed stunning view of a valley studded with a huge patch of olive trees, and long rows of grapevines.
From from a dramatic distance, two more accommodations that are former farmhouses and can comfortably accommodate bigger parties—the Villa San Luigi, a five-bedroom headline villa with its own check-in experience, wellness annex, and infinity pool; and the Podere San Filippo, which has a dozen kitchen-equipped modern apartments that range from one to three bedrooms.
It’s a picturesque panorama that demanded momentary appreciation whenever I entered and left my room. And I often obliged.
Within the vicinity is an inviting 25-meter heated swimming pool; two outdoor tennis courts; a solemn chapel; the COMO Shambhala Retreat, which has an array of wellness offerings including morning sun salutation yoga sessions, bespoke massages and energizing soaks in thermal suites; and lots of cozy sitting nooks that offer varying kinds of pause and relief.
My initial plan was to revel in the lap of luxury my room provided, escaping only to have a multi-course dinner at their Michelin-starred La Torre, the space of which was the castle’s former stables, or a nightcap at La Taverna, which once was a 900-year-old kitchen that prepared opulent feasts for the noble Del Nero family. But the wonderful hands-on experiences COMO Castello del Nero had available were just too hard to pass up.
I donned an apron and made my very first pizza from scratch. Guided by the pizzaolo of their all-day dining restaurant Pavilion, I kneaded dough with my hands and topped it with tomatoes, nduja and mozzarella before placing in a wood-fired oven. Once done, I brought the pie to my suite, turned the TV on, put my feet up, and enjoyed the fruits of my labor.
Truffle hunting with canines
The following day, we braved the wet weather and ventured into the forest to unearth truffles. Accompanied by young tartufaio Matti and his trained canines Lily and Briza, I traversed the muddy trail in search of black truffles.
It took us less than half an hour to gather a handful, which I then brought back to the hotel’s kitchen in exchange for my reward—a four-course lunch liberally sprinkled with shavings of the savory, earthy fungi.
There was still a number of worthwhile activities I thought I was game to participate in—Tuscan hot air ballooning, wine appreciation sessions, art and architecture tours, gelato-making classes as well as olive oil and cheese tastings—but the call of the cushy bed and bathtub, along with the chilly weather, beat them on multiple occasions.
Related story: Some of Europe’s monarchies will be headed by Gen Z royals
This was my third visit to this part of Italy. But it felt like I was appreciating and acknowledging the true and real beauty of Tuscany for the very first time. And the only way to explain it really was because I was seeing it through COMO’s eyes—which made all the difference.
COMO Castello del Nero is located at Strada Spicciano 7, 50028 Barberino Tavarnelle, Tuscany, Italy. Call +39 055 806470 or email castellodelnero@comohotels.com.
