Celine Men SS27 makes skinny fits feel new again

Michael Rider’s first standalone menswear show for the house moved through different moods, silhouettes, and characters, all while staying inside the same Celine world.

Celine Men Spring 2027 did not stick to one idea of how a man should dress. For Michael Rider’s first standalone menswear show for the house, the collection moved through different moods while still feeling clearly Celine.

Shown on the final day of Paris Men’s Fashion Week, the runway mixed slim trousers, soft knits, roomy coats, cropped pants, striped shirts, and easy tailoring. Some looks were sharp. Others felt relaxed, strange, or youthful. The looks suggested a wardrobe built around personality, not rules.

Photos from Celine

Not just one Celine man

Rider did not present one fixed character. Instead, he showed several—the tailoring guy, the soft knit guy, the slim-trouser guy, the one who dresses with a little oddness.

Rider explained the approach behind the collection. “We try it all on, we have to want it, we build on it with each other. It’s a sense that’s collective, that we’re the customer and know what the values of the house are,” he said. “It’s the things we want, and we make the characters we want to be. I think that is unifying, and feels authentic.”

The models did not look like they were wearing one theme. They looked like different people with different ways of getting dressed.

Skinny fits are back

The biggest takeaway was the return of the slim fit. Celine sent out razor-slim trousers, cropped pants, fitted denim, and narrow shapes that put skinny silhouettes back on the runway.

But Rider did not make them feel like a late-2000s throwback. He styled them with relaxed coats, soft layers, strong color, and pieces with more movement. A narrow pant felt less severe with a roomy coat. A fitted trouser looked fresher with a knit or easy blazer.

The details made it feel personal

Accessories gave the collection its character. Beaded ties, layered necklaces, jeweled armbands, headpieces, and jewelry-like belts made the looks feel more individual. Some models wore fringed headbands over their faces, while one had gemstones on his forehead.

Rider said the styling came from thinking about youth and experimentation. “We were talking about when you’re young: I think a lot of us remember experimenting with our bodies, whether it’s tattoos or your first nose ring,” he said.

The street was part of the story

Rider looked to young men he sees around Paris. “I want the guys I see on the street,” he said. “I lean my arm out the window to get a photo of the back of their sock or something, and we look for those boys.”

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The collection moved from black, white, and soft neutrals into red, green, sky blue, burgundy, buttery yellow, and crisp white. Zebra prints, scarf-like fabrics, fringe, and textured knits added more movement.

A more open Celine

Rider said after the show, “We make the characters we want to be,” while also describing a “sense of freedom” within Celine.

Some days, that means a sharp coat and slim trousers. Other days, it means a soft knit, an odd accessory, or a color that changes the whole outfit. If skinny fits are really returning, Celine just gave them a better way back with more character.

Watch the full show below: