YSL creative director Anthony Vaccarello encapsulates this look in business suits paired with kinky thigh-high boots.
Seductive yet authentic—two contrasting features yet artfully combined by the Saint Laurent fashion house for years on end. Since its founding in 1961, Saint Laurent, or YSL, has been thriving on its creative fusion of edgy yet elegant Parisian-chic looks. Its Fall/Winter 2025 menswear collection is no exception to its mastery of the craft.
For this season, creative director Anthony Vaccarello crafted a line that delves into the Maison’s clever interplay of contrasting elements, where traditional tailoring meets the charm of unexpected pairings. Vaccarello drew inspiration from the haute couture and Rive Gauche collections of the brand’s founder, Yves Saint Laurent, and infused them with the seductive, anything-goes style of iconic American photographer Robert Mapplethorpe.
The result is a collection that showcases the art of restraint and indulgence in pieces that exude “menacing, seductive elegance,” as the Belgian-Italian designer described them in the show’s notes.
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It was made to captivate and intrigue, starting with how Saint Laurent unveiled the collection in a secret fashion show on the night of Jan. 28 to close this season’s Paris Fashion Week. Set in the big circular chamber of Bourse de Commerce, the Saint Laurent F/W2025 men’s show was in all corners luxurious.
It made the historical monument more glitzy, with guests sitting in a circular configuration around a stage fancified with low-hanging golden candle chandeliers. The burning orange lighting created an intimate atmosphere in the vast, dark space, setting the tone for a night of dramatic fashion spectacle.
The new capsule showcases the art of “temperamental opposites” in silhouettes that make up the new executive aesthetic. Vaccarello reimagined Saint Laurent’s suits with flowy fabrics for a relaxed fit and firmed them up with his signature power shoulders to exude masculinity and dominance in all forms and shapes.
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Saint Laurent F/W2025 men’s collection showcases the luxury brand’s quality craftsmanship and tailoring. Sharply structured blazers, elongated overcoats, and high-waisted trousers lengthen the frame and create a commanding presence essential for power dressing.
Texture is key to elevating the collection’s distinctiveness. Virgin wools, refined silks, and supple leathers were used to underscore the Maison’s commitment to luxury and quality. It enhanced visual interest through a soft cashmere coat layered over a shiny silk shirt, a grainy leather trench coupled with wool trousers, and an ostentatious feather coat paired with a finely woven business suit. With these, the collection promises a multidimensional experience along with comfort and longevity that are all essential for today’s discerning men seeking investment-worthy attire.
Challenging this traditional aesthetic of men are the thigh-high, wader-like riding boots every model hit the runway in during the show. Crafted from supple leather, a little slouchy, and stretching all the way up the thigh, the boots were a surprise element in the collection dominated by sharp suits aimed at modern executives. The kinky footwear brought striking duality to the collection, making it edgy and sexy as much as it is polished and sleek.
Despite its duality, the collection continues to convey sophistication and authority with its color palette curated in true Saint Laurent fashion. The Maison’s Fall/Winter 2025 men’s lineup features a streamlined palette of black, charcoal, brown, and nude. The inclusion of midnight blue and oxblood enhances the capsule’s adaptability to professional and social settings.
Watch the entire show below.
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