Haider Ackermann’s first collection for Tom Ford at Paris Fashion Week is polished and structured, focusing on strong tailoring, minimalism, and bold color choices.
The show opened with a series of sleek leather looks. Models wore fitted leather jackets, low-rise trousers, and wraparound sunglasses. The styling was sharp and intentional, with crisp silhouettes and clean lines. The color palette was mostly black and white, with a few bold additions. Red trench coats, cobalt blue accents, and deep lavender gowns, oversized bangles, flat clutch bags, and slicked-back hair completing the looks.
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As the collection progressed, it introduced more fluidity. High-slit gowns in soft fabrics contrasted with the structured outerwear from the first half of the show. Some dresses had asymmetrical cuts, while others featured draped elements that moved with ease. Unlike past Tom Ford collections, which often emphasized tight, body-conscious silhouettes, the F/W 2025 designs allowed for more movement while maintaining a sleek appearance.
Suits were a strong part of the lineup. Classic tailoring, presenting fitted blazers, sharp lapels, and slim-cut trousers. Metallic fabrics added dimension, and some jackets were styled open, showing sheer tops underneath. There was an emphasis on layering, with long coats draped over tailored pieces. A standout look included a tuxedo jacket worn over a sheer bodysuit, blending masculine and feminine elements effortlessly.
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Leather played a key role too. Crocodile-embossed tops, biker jackets, and motorcycle gloves reinforced the brand’s signature bold aesthetic. The pace of the show was deliberate, allowing each look to be fully appreciated.
The set design was simple. Fogged-up mirrors lined the walls, the soundtrack featured Nick Cave, adding a moody atmosphere that complemented the collection’s aesthetic.
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Ackermann’s appointment as creative director followed a period of transition for the brand. His predecessor, Peter Hawkings, was removed after a brief tenure.
The tailored suits, sleek leather pieces, and draped gowns fit seamlessly into the brand’s established reputation for high-end evening wear.
The result was a polished, wearable collection that set a strong foundation for his tenure at the house.
All photos from Tom Ford
